Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

• From MAIN FABRIC:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Front FACING – 2 QTY
• 6. Back SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 7. Front SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 8. Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY on fold
• 9. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY on fold
• 10. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY on fold
• 11. Pocket FACING – 2 QTY
• 12. Lower CUFF – 2 QTY
• 13. Upper CUFF – 2 QTY
• From LINING:
• 14. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 15. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 16. Back SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 17. Front SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 18. Fly closure – 2 QTY
• 19. Upper pocket bag – 2 QTY
• 20. Lower pocket bag – 2 QTY
• From TRIM FABRIC:
• 21. Upper COLLAR TRIM – 1 QTY on fold
• 22. SLEEVE CUFF TRIM – 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: fuse the upper BACK PANELs and FRONT PANELs, front FACINGs, back neckline FACING, COLLARs and COLLAR TRIM, pocket FACINGs, SLEEVE CUFFs, SLEEVE CUFF TRIMs, upper SLEEVEs.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the upper BACK PANELs and FRONT PANELs, front FACINGs, back neckline FACING, COLLARs and COLLAR TRIM, pocket FACINGs, SLEEVE CUFFs, SLEEVE CUFF TRIMs, upper SLEEVEs with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Create WELT POCKETS on the FRONT PANELs: neatly stitch the FACINGs along the short sides, turn right side out and press. Topstitch the fold close to the edge. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, press a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING about 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place the pocket FACING and upper pocket bag right sides together with the FRONT PANEL, pin along the pocket opening marking and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the FACING and pocket bag align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the FRONT PANEL along the lines between the stitches, diagonally to the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the FACINGs and pocket bags! Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn the FACINGs and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, place the lower pocket bag on the FACING, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, topstitch the FACING into the attaching seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and topstitch precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch together. Topstitch the FACING along the short sides to the FRONT PANEL.
3. Stitch the center back seam, relief seams, and press open.
4. Place the front and back SLEEVE parts with the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL respectively, stitch, and press open.
5. Stitch the upper SLEEVE seams.
6. Stitch the lower SLEEVE seams and side seams of the coat in one continuous line.
7. On the right front FACING, create a FLY CLOSURE: Place two LINING pieces for the fly closure right sides together with the front FACING, pin along the marking for the closure and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the LININGs align with the center line of the closure marking. Cut the front FACING along the lines between the stitches, diagonally to the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the LININGs! Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn the LININGs through the opening to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste. From the right side, topstitch the lower LINING into the attaching seam. Press the LINING downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch to the LININGs precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Create buttonholes on the front FACING, catching the lower LINING. Secure both LININGs to the front FACING by stitching machine lines perpendicular to the edge between the buttonholes.
8. Attach the CUFF TRIM to the upper CUFF, press seams open. Stitch the short edges of the upper and lower CUFFs, place them right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Place the lower CUFF with the SLEEVE and stitch. Press the seam open.
9. Attach the COLLAR TRIM to the upper COLLAR. Insert the lower COLLAR into the neckline. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACINGs, insert the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FACING and front FACINGs. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clip curves. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the front FACINGs, onto the main garment right side in and stitch the edges and COLLAR, turn right side out and press. Secure the COLLAR insertion seams together. Baste the edge and COLLAR.
10. Bottom edge: position the front FACINGs forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and sew. Turn the front FACINGs to the wrong side. Sew in shoulder pads.
11. Stitch the cut LINING pieces. Hem the bottom so that it is 2 cm shorter than the coat hem. Place the LINING right sides together with the coat and stitch to the inner edges of the front FACINGs and the back neckline FACING, folding back the coat hem allowance. Turn the coat right side out. Sew the LINING at the bottom of the garment to the hem allowances, and at the bottom of the SLEEVES to the upper CUFF.
12. Create buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons according to markings.