CUTTER'S MUST
- From MAIN FABRIC:
- BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- Pocket – 2 QTY
- Stand COLLAR – 2 QTY on fold
- From LINING:
- BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL cut-on with SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- From INTERFACING: fuse the FACING pieces, pockets, and lower COLLAR with interfacing.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the FACING pieces, pockets, and lower COLLAR with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed onto the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron)
- Patch pockets. Turn the cut-on FACING of the top of each pocket to the right side and stitch to the side edges. Turn the FACING to the wrong side, also turn the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the remaining pocket edges to the wrong side. Topstitch the pocket along the FACING. Pin the pocket to the FRONT PANEL and topstitch close to the edge.
- Stitch the center back seam, princess seams, and shoulder seams. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- Stitch the COLLAR along the side and upper edges, turn right side out, press, and topstitch along the edge. Baste the finished COLLAR into the neckline, placing the COLLAR right sides together with the main garment.
- Install magnetic snap buttons on the FACINGS, placing a small piece of fabric under each. Turn the cut-on FACINGS to the right side and stitch to the neckline edge over the COLLAR. From the ends of the FACINGS, stitch the COLLAR into the back neckline. Stitch the FACINGS to the bottom of the garment and turn to the wrong side.
- Sew the SLEEVE seams. Serge and press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Press the SLEEVE hem allowance to the wrong side.
- Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the NOTCHES and pull the thread to match the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, matching control NOTCHES, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the LINING pieces. Finish the FACINGS with LINING along the inner edges. Hand-stitch the LINING to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the COLLAR attachment seam and the shoulder edges of the FACINGS. Stitch the LINING to the lower edges of the SLEEVES. Hem the LINING.
- Hem the bottom of the coat.
