Collared Jacket with Flap and Welt Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

• From MAIN FABRIC:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 3. Back YOKE - 1 QTY on fold
• 4. Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 5. Middle FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 6. Side FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 7. Front YOKE - 1 QTY on fold
• 8. Front FACING - 2 QTY
• 9. SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 10. COLLAR - 2 QTY
• 11. Flap - 4 QTY
• 12. WELT - 2 QTY
• 13. Back FACING – 1 QTY on fold
• 14. Lower Pocket – 2 QTY
• From LINING FABRIC:
• 14. Lower Pocket – 2 QTY
• 15. Upper Pocket - 4 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: upper COLLAR, front FACING, WELT, upper flap, back FACING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the front FACING, upper COLLAR, WELT, back neckline FACING, and upper flaps with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacing is pressed onto the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron).
2. Stitch the center back seam and the princess seams, then serge. Press the center seam towards the left side, and the princess seams towards the center. Topstitch the seams 2 mm from the edge.
3. Place the back YOKE and BACK PANEL right sides together and stitch. Press the seam towards the YOKE and topstitch 2 mm from the edge.
4. Stitch the middle FRONT PANEL to the center and side FRONT PANEL. Press the seam between the middle and center parts towards the front edge, and the seam between the middle and side parts towards the side seam. Topstitch the seams 2 mm from the edge.
5. On the side FRONT PANELS, create WELT POCKETS: press the WELT lengthwise in half with right sides out. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, press a strip of interfacing about 2 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place the WELT and the lower pocket from the main fabric right sides together with the FRONT PANEL, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal raw edges of the WELT and pocket bag align with the center of the pocket marking. Cut the FRONT PANEL lengthwise between the stitching lines, and diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the WELT or pocket bags! Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn the WELT and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, place the lower pocket bag onto the WELT, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, topstitch the WELT into the attachment seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them together with the ends of the WELT, precisely from the ends of the upper stitching line to the ends of the lower one. Trim and even out the pocket bags, then stitch them. Topstitch the pocket opening 2 mm from the edge.
6. Place the flap pieces right sides together, stitch along the side and bottom edges, turn right side out, press, and topstitch 2 mm from the edge. Align the raw edges of the flap with the YOKE edge, placing the flap on the right side of the front YOKE. Place the upper part of the pocket bag on top of the flap, and baste everything. Place the lower part of the pocket bag on the right side of the lower FRONT PANEL. Stitch the flap and pocket bags. Stitch the YOKE to the FRONT PANEL. Turn the pocket bags inwards, even them out, and stitch. Clip the seam near the pocket. Press the attachment seam towards the YOKE and topstitch.
7. Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Press the seams to one side and topstitch 2 mm from the edge.
8. Stitch the lower COLLAR into the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACINGS. Stitch the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FACING and front FACINGS; press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clip at curves.
9. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the front FACINGS, onto the main garment right side in, and stitch the front edges and COLLAR; turn right side out and press; fold under the raw edge of the upper COLLAR and topstitch into the attachment seam of the lower COLLAR. Topstitch the front edges and COLLAR 2 mm from the edge.
10. Stitch the SLEEVE seam, press to one side, and topstitch 2 mm from the seam. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to markings, direct the seams towards the garment, and topstitch 2 mm.
11. Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES of the jacket and SLEEVES to the wrong side, fold the raw edges inwards, and topstitch along the inner edge.
12. Serge the buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to markings, and sew buttons on the left. Also, sew buttons on the flaps.