Double-Breasted Belted Semi-Raglan Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 2. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 3. BACK SLEEVE PART - 2 QTY
• 4. FRONT SLEEVE PART - 2 QTY
• 5. FACING - 2 QTY
• 6. UPPER COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 7. LOWER COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 8. BACK NECK FACING - 1 QTY with fold
• 9. WELT - 2 QTY
• 10. UNDERLAY - 2 QTY
• 11. BELT - 1 QTY
• 12. SLEEVE TAB – 4 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 13. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 14. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 15. BACK SLEEVE PART - 2 QTY
• 16. FRONT SLEEVE PART - 2 QTY
• 17. POCKET BAG - 4 QTY

Fabric & Materials

From FUSIBLE INTERFACING fabric: reinforce FACING pieces, back neck FACING, COLLAR, welts, tabs with interfacing. Additionally, press the interfacing to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem and vent.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce FACING pieces, back neck FACING, COLLAR, welts, tabs with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Additionally, press the interfacing to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem and vent. (Heat-adhesive interfacings are pressed from the wrong side of the piece with a strongly heated iron).
2. On the FRONT PANELs, make WELT POCKETS: cleanly stitch the welts along the short sides, turn out and press. Topstitch the fold close to the edge.
3. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, press a strip of interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking.
4. Turn under one long edge of the underlay and topstitch the underlay onto the upper pocket bag.
5. Place the pocket welt and upper pocket bag with the FRONT PANEL right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the welt and pocket bag align with the center line of the pocket marking.
6. Cut the FRONT PANEL along between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the welts and pocket bags!
7. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
8. Turn the welts and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste.
9. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, place the lower pocket bag on the welt, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, topstitch the welt into the attachment seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards.
10. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and topstitch exactly from the ends of the upper stitching line to the ends of the lower stitching line.
11. Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch.
12. Topstitch the welt along the short sides to the FRONT PANEL.
13. Stitch the center back seam up to the vent. Press the seam, along with the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES, towards the left side seam.
14. Stitch the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL, press open.
15. Place the front and back SLEEVE parts with the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL respectively, stitch, press towards the SLEEVE.
16. Fold the tabs in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along the oval sides. Turn out, press, and topstitch.
17. Stitch the upper SLEEVE seams, inserting the tabs according to the markings.
18. Stitch the lower SLEEVE seams and the coat side seams in one continuous line.
19. Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline.
20. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck FACING and FACINGs, attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING and FACINGs. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clip at curves.
21. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the FACINGs, onto the main garment right side in and stitch the fronts and COLLAR, turn out and press.
22. Secure the COLLAR attachment seams together. Baste the front and COLLAR.
23. Bottom edge: lay the FACINGs forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the FACINGs to the wrong side.
24. Attach shoulder pads.
25. Stitch the LINING pieces. Fold the bottom hem so that it is 2 cm shorter than the coat hem.
26. Place the LINING with the coat right sides together and stitch to the inner edges of the FACINGs and the back neck FACING, folding back the coat hem allowance.
27. Turn the coat right side out.
28. Smooth the LINING, pin the side seams to the coat side seams and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. 1 cm before the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts of 1 cm on both sides.
29. Turn the cuts inwards and pin to the vent edges. Reach your hand between the coat and LINING, grasp the pinned edges and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem allowance down. Straighten the vent edges.
30. At the upper edge of the vent, turn under the LINING corner and stitch to the vent allowance. From the right side of the coat, make a diagonal topstitch, catching the vent allowances.
31. Stitch the LINING at the bottom of the garment and SLEEVES to the hem allowances.
32. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes, attach buttons according to markings.
33. Topstitch along the front edge, COLLAR, bottom of the garment and SLEEVES.
34. Fold the BELT in half lengthwise right side in and cleanly stitch along the long and one short side, turn out and press the folds. Turning under the open edge, stitch around the perimeter of the BELT at a distance of 0.5 cm.