CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
- 2. Center BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- 3. SIDE PANEL for front and back - 2 QTY, 85 cm long each
- The width of the SIDE PANELS depends on the waist circumference:
- Waist = 62-67 cm width – 84 cm
- Waist = 68 - 75 cm width – 96 cm
- Waist = 76 - 83 cm width – 108 cm
- Waist = 84 -95 cm width – 120 cm
- Waist = 96 - 107 cm width – 132 cm
- Waist = 108 – 119 cm width – 144 cm.
- 5. Waistband - 1 QTY
- Waistband length: skirt's upper edge length plus 4 cm for fastening, waistband width 8 cm in cutting (4 cm finished).
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: waistband (except for the casing area).
- Casing length - from the side edge of the center FRONT PANEL to the side edge of the center BACK PANEL.
- Important: Press pleats on the SIDE PANELS of the front and back. The easiest way is to have the pleats made in a workshop: triple pleats, visible pleat width - 4 cm. This means that for a 4 cm wide pleat, you will need 12 cm of fabric, i.e., 4 cm pleat width (visible width) and 8 cm pleat depth. For the first pleat from the right edge of the left panel, half the pleat depth (4 cm) plus SEAM ALLOWANCE will be needed. For the last pleat from the left edge, mark the visible part of the pleat 4 cm wide. After the visible part, for the pleat on the center FRONT PANEL, another half of the pleat depth plus SEAM ALLOWANCE will be needed. Hem the panels before pleating.
Sewing Instructions
- Hem the center front and back parts of the skirt panels.
- On the wrong side of the pleated panels, stitch the pleats for 19.5 cm from the upper edge.
- Press the pleat fold on the center FRONT PANEL to the wrong side.
- Topstitch the left side of the center FRONT PANEL according to the marking.
- Make longitudinal buttonholes according to the marking.
- Pin the center front and back panels with the pleated panels so that the pleat fold of the center FRONT PANEL matches the marking of the visible part of the pleated panel.
- The pleat fold of the pleated panel matches the seam line of the BACK PANEL.
- Sew the seams in the inner fold of the pleats, leaving the vent on the left side of the center FRONT PANEL open.
- Stitch the outer pleat fold for 19.5 cm from the upper edge.
- Press the vent allowance of the SIDE PANEL to the wrong side and topstitch 0.5 cm wide.
- At the lower end of the vent, stitch the pleat depth, starting from the pleat fold, for 5 cm along the seam line.
- From the right side, attach one longitudinal side of the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt, the fastening allowance - to the pleat depth of the left SIDE PANEL.
- Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and neatly stitch along the short sides.
- Press the waistband to the wrong side, fold under the lower edge and pin to the attaching seam.
- For the casing, topstitch the waistband on both sides in the pleat area.
- Cut the elastic tape into 2 parts, insert into the casing and attach to the waistband at the level of the pleat fold and the fastening allowance.
- Topstitch the remaining open lower fold of the waistband into the attaching seam.
- Topstitch the waistband in the middle of each casing between the transverse stitches, stretching the elastic tape.
- Make 1 buttonhole on the waistband.
