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#5133
#5135

Short Sleeve Jacket

Pattern #5134

A short, fitted women's jacket with short set-in sleeves, armhole princess seams front and back, a shirt-style collar and a single-breasted button front. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dense natural fabrics, such as heavy silk.

Tech. Description

Short Sleeve Jacket

A short, fitted women's jacket with short set-in sleeves, armhole princess seams front and back, a shirt-style collar and a single-breasted button front. Fully lined.

When To Wear

  • In late spring and summer, over a dress or a sleeveless top.
  • For the office with a pencil skirt or high-waisted trousers.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes to the hem, plus darts on the centre front and centre back panels.

Length: Short, ending at the waist or just below, with a straight hem.

Collar: Pointed shirt-style collar of two layers, each cut on the fold, sewn into the neckline between the jacket and the facings.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with shoulder pads.

Front: Single-breasted, with a column of small buttons from the collar to the hem and buttonholes on the right front; front edges finished with separate facings.

Back: Centre back panel cut on the fold, with no centre back seam, and two side back panels.

Finishing: Hems of the jacket and sleeves turned up and stitched by hand; facings stitched to the hem allowance.

Lining: Full lining, including the sleeves, cut from the main pieces minus the facing widths and sewn to the facings and hem allowances.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, set-in sleeves, a collar set between the jacket and the facings, a full lining and buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Dense natural fabrics, such as heavy silk.

Additional Supplies

  • Lining fabric
  • Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, collar)
  • 8 buttons
  • Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Center Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Side Back – 2 pieces
  • Center Front – 2 pieces
  • Side Front – 2 pieces
  • Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece on fold
  • Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces on fold
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • From fusible interfacing:
  • Center Front – 2 pieces
  • Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece on fold
  • Collar – 2 pieces on fold
  • Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
  • From lining: on the Center Front mark the width of the Center Front Facing; place the Back Neckline Facing on the Center Back and mark it. Cut off the facing widths along the marked lines and cut the remaining pieces (and Sleeves) from lining fabric.

Sewing Instructions

  1. Stitch the darts on the Center Front pieces and Center Back.
  2. Stitch front and back princess seams, as well as side and shoulder seams.
  3. Face the front edges of the Center Front pieces with the Center Front Facings. Trim seam allowances close to the seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
  4. Stitch collar pieces along the outer contour, right sides together. Trim seam allowances close to the seam, turn the collar right side out, press the edges. Join the open edges and baste into the neckline.
  5. Stitch the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing right sides together to the neckline, inserting the collar. Trim seam allowances close to the stitches, clip curves multiple times, trim corners diagonally.
  6. Lay the Center Front Facings forward. Turn up the hem seam allowances to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the Center Front Facings inward again, stitch to the hem seam allowances.
  7. Stitch sleeve seams. Turn up the hem seam allowances to the wrong side and stitch. Set in sleeves. Attach shoulder pads.
  8. Stitch lining pieces. Stitch the lining right sides together to the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings, starting and ending the stitch approximately 8 cm from the bottom edge. Turn the lining to the wrong side, turn under and stitch to the hem seam allowances of the jacket and sleeves. Turn under the remaining open edges of the lining and stitch to the Center Front Facings.
  9. Along the right front edge, make buttonholes according to the markings. Sew buttons on the left side corresponding to the buttonhole placement.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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