Single-Breasted Simple Blazer
A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with armhole princess seams front and back, a notched collar, a one-button front and in-seam pockets in the front princess seams. Fully lined, with two-piece sleeves.
When To Wear
- For the office, with matching trousers or a skirt as a suit.
- In spring and early autumn over a blouse or a fine knit, with jeans or a dress.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes to the hem at front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the under collar is sewn to the jacket neckline and the upper collar to the facings.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and under sleeve), with the cap eased in and supported by a strip of wadding about 4 cm wide; shoulder pads.
Front: Single-breasted with one button at the waist, the front edges curving apart below it; separate front facings.
Pockets: In-seam pockets set into the front princess seams, with the opening topstitched on the centre front side.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams, with the centre back panels topstitched 0.7 cm from the princess seams.
Finishing: Front edges, lapels and collar topstitched; front princess seams topstitched above and below the pocket openings.
Lining: Full lining, bagged and turned through an opening left in one sleeve lining seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar set between jacket and facings, in-seam pockets in princess seams, eased two-piece sleeves with sleeve-head support and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics that hold their shape, such as poplin.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric in a matching colour
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, collar)
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- A scrap of synthetic wadding for the sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces, cut on fold (upper and under collar)
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece, cut on fold
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric: Pocket – 2 pieces; Center Front (minus the width of the Center Front Facing) – 2 pieces; Center Back (minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing) – 2 pieces; Side Front – 2 pieces; Side Back – 2 pieces; Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces; Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces.
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing and Collar.
- Stitch the center back seam (Center Back pieces). Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back). Press the seam allowances towards the center back. Topstitch the Center Back pieces along the princess seams 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front), leaving the pocket openings unstitched. Press the seam allowances towards the center front.
- Stitch the upper Pocket bag to the pocket opening allowance of the Center Front, right sides together. Topstitch the Center Front along the pocket opening. Stitch the lower Pocket bag to the pocket opening allowance of the Side Front, right sides together. Stitch the Pocket bags together around the edges. Topstitch the Center Front along the princess seam above and below the pocket opening.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams.
- Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings.
- Place the joined facings on the jacket, right sides together, and pin. Stitch the Center Front Facings to the front and lapel edges up to the collar notch mark.
- Stitch the two Collar pieces right sides together along the outer edge, trim and turn. Insert the Collar between the jacket and the joined facings. Stitch the under collar to the jacket neckline and the upper collar to the neckline of the facings. Press the collar attachment seam allowances open and clip them at the curves. Turn the facings to the wrong side. Pin the under and upper collar attachment seams together and stitch their allowances together close to the seams. Press the jacket hem allowance to the wrong side.
- Stitch the front and elbow seams of the sleeves (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve). Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side. Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve caps. Sew a strip of synthetic batting approx. 4 cm wide under the seam allowances of each sleeve attachment seam in the sleeve cap area. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm in the elbow seam of one of the sleeves. Place the lining and the main garment right sides together, pin along the center back and shoulder seams. Stitch the lining to the jacket along the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Stitch the sleeve lining to the sleeve hem allowances. Stitch the lining to the edge of the jacket hem allowance. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched sleeve section, then stitch this section closed.
- Topstitch the jacket along the edges of the fronts, lapels, and collar.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole; on the left, sew on a button.
