Tailored Collared Jacket with Flap Pockets
A women's hip-length fitted jacket with notched lapels, a single-breasted three-button front and double-welt pockets with flaps. It has princess seams front and back, two-piece sleeves with a vent, and a full lining.
When To Wear
- For the office and meetings, over a blouse with trousers or a straight skirt.
- In spring and autumn as a light outer layer over a fine knit or a T-shirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes on the front and back.
Length: To the hips.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; separate upper and lower collar, the lower collar interfaced.
Front: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front; interfaced front facings.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, the cap eased with gathering stitches and shrunk with the iron. A vent in the elbow seam with interfaced edges; the drawing shows three buttons on the vent.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets with flaps on the fronts; the flaps are lined and edge-stitched, with a facing piece on the upper pocket bag.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; hem allowances of the back pieces interfaced.
Finishing: Interfaced back neck facing; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining with darts, an ease pleat at the centre back and an ease fold at the hem; the jacket is turned through a 20 cm opening left in one sleeve lining seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Double-welt pockets with flaps, a notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, two-piece sleeves with vents and an eased cap, and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven fabrics with body: suiting fabrics, gabardine, wool or linen blends.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 3 buttons for the front
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Pocket Facing – 4 pieces
- Pocket Underlay Piece – 2 pieces
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Upper Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Lower Collar and Pocket Flaps. Additionally, iron fusible interfacing onto the hem allowances of the back pieces.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the Center Front Facings, lower collar, pocket flaps, and back neckline facing with fusible interfacing (heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Stitch the Center Back pieces along the center back seam.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back and front.
- Create welt pockets with two facings and flaps: Neatly stitch the flap pieces from the main and lining fabrics together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges. On the wrong side of the front, iron a strip of interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place two Pocket Facings on the Center Front, right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the facings align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the front along the line between the stitches, diagonally towards the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the facings! Press the cut edges away from the openings. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side so that a neat frame is formed, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the facings in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch into the attachment seams. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the facings precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Insert the open edges of the flaps between the facings, stitching them into the attachment seams of the upper facings. Fold under the seam allowance of one long side of the Pocket Underlay Piece and topstitch it onto the Upper Pocket Bag. From the inside, stitch the pocket bags to the seam allowances of the flap attachment and of the lower facing attachment. Trim the pocket bags evenly, then stitch them together.
- Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
- Attach the Lower Collar to the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings; attach the Upper Collar to the neckline of the facings; press the seam allowances open, clip curves.
- Place the Upper Collar, joined with the Center Front Facings, onto the main garment right sides together, and stitch the front edges and collar; turn out and press; hand-stitch the neckline edge of the Upper Collar over the neckline seam.
- From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front edge and collar, baste.
- Reinforce the sleeve hem allowance and the vent with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the sleeve seams, leaving the vents open at the elbow seams of the sleeves. Clip the seam allowances of the lower sleeve parts above the vent marking. Press the seam allowances open above the vent. Finish the sleeves with a hem. Press the edges of the vents on the upper sleeve parts to the wrong side. Pin the vents, topstitch the edges of the vents to each other from the inside.
- Gather the sleeve cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated markings and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the sleeve to the garment, aligning the control markings, and stitch, sewing from the sleeve side. Attach shoulder pads.
- Lining: form an ease pleat at the center back and secure it below the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment. Stitch the darts on the lining pieces. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the sleeves. Insert the lining into the main garment, right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch the main garment to the lining along the Center Front Facings and neckline. Form an ease fold at the bottom and stitch the lining to the edge of the hem allowance. Turn the garment right side out through the remaining unstitched sleeve section, and stitch this section closed. Make buttonholes on the right front according to the markings and sew on buttons.
