Tailored Lapel Jacket with Patch Pockets
A hip-length women's jacket with a notched collar, a single-breasted four-button front, two-piece sleeves finished with turn-back cuffs and two lined patch pockets sewn on by hand. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- For the office over blouses and fine knitwear, with trousers or a skirt.
- As a light outer layer in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by bust darts and waist darts on the fronts and waist darts on the back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar; the under collar is set into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings, with the upper collar and the facing lapels cut slightly wider so the seams roll to the underside.
Front: Single-breasted, four buttons with buttonholes on the right front; separate front facings joined to a back neck facing.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps. A slit in the elbow seam and a cut-on hem facing are turned up to the height of the slit to form the cuffs. A strip of synthetic batting about 4 cm wide supports each sleeve head; shoulder pads.
Pockets: Two patch pockets with a cut-on top facing, lined, turned through a 5 cm opening and attached with blind hand stitches.
Back: Centre back seam and waist darts.
Lining: Full lining with a pleat of about 2 cm at the centre back and an ease pleat at the hem; the jacket is turned through a 20 cm opening left in one sleeve lining seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar set between the jacket and the facings, two-piece sleeves with a cuff slit, hand-sewn lined patch pockets and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight jacket fabrics with body: suiting, gabardine, wool blends.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, back neck facing, collar, pockets, sleeve hem facings, back hem allowance)
- 4 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Synthetic batting for the sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front - 2 pieces
- Back - 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces, each on fold
- Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece on fold
- Pocket - 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric: Front - minus the width of the center front facing; Back - minus the width of the back neckline facing and with a pleat approx. 2 cm deep along the center line for ease; Upper Sleeve, Lower Sleeve and Pocket - minus the width of the cut-on facing
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce the fronts, center front facings, back neckline facing, collar and pockets; on the sleeves, the cut-on hem facings (cuffs). Additionally, press interfacing to the hem allowance of the back pieces.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the darts. Press waist dart depths towards the center front/back line, bust dart depths - downwards.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the center front facings. Place the facings on the jacket right sides together and pin, making the lapels of the facings slightly wider than the lapels of the fronts.
- Stitch the center front facings to the lower edges of the fronts (stopping 5 cm before the ends of the facings) and along the front edges and lapels up to the collar notch (leave the facings lying on the fronts right sides together for now).
- Stitch the two collar pieces together along the outer edge, making the upper collar slightly wider than the under collar.
- Insert the collar between the jacket and the facings. Stitch the under collar into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings.
- Press open the seam allowances of the upper and under collar seams; on the curves, clip several times up to the stitching.
- Turn the facings to the wrong side. Press the jacket hem allowance to the wrong side, but do not stitch yet.
- Pin the upper and under collar seams together. Turn the back neckline facing up again and stitch the seam allowances of the upper and under collar seams together close to the seams.
- Attach the lining of each pocket to the cut-on facing of the pocket top, leaving an open section approx. 5 cm long in the middle of the seam. Turn the cut-on facing of the pocket top and lining to the right side of the pocket and attach to the side and lower edges. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching line. Turn the pocket out, sew the open section of the seam. Pin the pocket to the front along the alignment lines and hand stitch with blind stitches.
- Stitch the front sleeve seams (upper sleeve to lower sleeve). Turn the cut-on hem facing of each sleeve to the right side and stitch it along the edges of the slit up to the slit notch. Turn the upper edge of the facing down and pin.
- Stitch the elbow seam up to the slit. Stitch the remaining open edges of the facing. Turn the facing to the wrong side. Press the lower edge of the sleeve and the edges of the slit.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve caps. Under the seam allowances of each sleeve attachment seam in the sleeve cap area, stitch a strip of synthetic batting approx. 4 cm wide. Attach shoulder pads.
- Form a pleat for ease on the back lining and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment.
- Stitch the darts on the lining pieces. Sew the lining pieces together in the same way as to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm of the elbow seam of one of the sleeves.
- Place the lining in the jacket right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch the lining to the center front facings and neckline. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Form a pleat for ease at the bottom of the garment and attach the lining to the hem allowance edge.
- Turn the garment right side out through the remaining unstitched sleeve section, stitch this section closed. Make buttonholes on the right front as marked and sew the buttons on the left front. Turn the lower edges of the sleeves up to the height of the slit to form the cuffs.
