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#5095
#5097

Long Sleeve Collared Embroidered Blouse

Pattern #5096

A hip-length women's blouse with a notched collar, a six-button front with cut-on facings and two vertical bands of floral embroidery on the fronts. Long set-in sleeves with eased caps and back waist darts. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: light to medium-weight woven blouse fabrics with a smooth surface that take embroidery well, such as cotton poplin, batiste or fine linen.

Tech. Description

Long Sleeve Collared Embroidered Blouse

A hip-length women's blouse with a notched collar, a six-button front with cut-on facings and two vertical bands of floral embroidery on the fronts. Long set-in sleeves with eased caps and back waist darts.

When To Wear

  • For the office and daytime wear in spring and autumn, with trousers or a straight skirt.
  • Worn open at the neck, with the collar laid over a jacket or cardigan.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, shaped with darts; the back has two vertical waist darts.

Length: Hip length, straight hem turned up and topstitched.

Collar: Two-piece collar with pointed ends, worn open with lapels formed by the cut-on facings. The facings are stitched to the neckline over the collar, and between them the collar is set into the back neckline.

Front: Six buttons, buttonholes on the right front; facings cut in one with the fronts and hand-sewn to the hem and seam allowances. A band of floral embroidery runs down each front beside the buttons. The fronts are cut with wider allowances, the motif is transferred with carbon paper and embroidered, then the pattern is laid on again and the piece is trimmed to shape.

Sleeves: Long, one-piece, set-in, the cap eased between the notches with two rows of long stitches; plain hem turned up 1.5 cm and topstitched, no cuff.

Back: One piece cut on the fold, no centre back seam.

Finishing: Seam allowances overlocked; armhole allowances pressed towards the sleeve at the cap.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Embroidery worked before final cutting, a collar set between the blouse and the cut-on facings, sleeve caps eased into the armholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Light to medium-weight woven blouse fabrics with a smooth surface that take embroidery well, such as cotton poplin, batiste or fine linen.

Additional Supplies

  • 6 buttons
  • Embroidery thread
  • Dressmaker's carbon paper for transferring the embroidery motif

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Front (with cut-in-one facing) – 2 pieces
  • Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

  1. Cut the fronts with slightly larger seam allowances. Transfer the embroidery to the fabric using carbon paper and complete it. Place the pattern on the embroidered piece and refine the cut.
  2. Stitch the darts.
  3. Stitch the side and shoulder seams.
  4. Turn up the hem allowance and topstitch.
  5. Place the two collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edges; trim, turn and press. Baste the open edges of the collar together and baste the collar to the neckline. Fold the cut-in-one facings to the right side and stitch them to the neckline over the collar. Between the ends of the facings, stitch the collar to the back neckline. Turn the facings to the wrong side and hand-sew them to the hem and to the seam allowances.
  6. Stitch the sleeve seams. Overlock and press the seam allowances open. Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side, turn up to a width of 1.5 cm and topstitch.
  7. Set in the sleeves. Ease each sleeve cap between the notches. To do this, sew a row of long machine stitches on each side of the marked seam line and pull the bobbin threads slightly to gather the fabric. Place the sleeve and blouse right sides together and pin the sleeve into the lower part of the armhole first, matching the sleeve seam to the side seam and the cross notches on the front and sleeve. Do not ease either the armhole or the sleeve at this point! Pin the sleeve at the shoulder seam, matching the cross notch on the sleeve cap to the seam. Then pin the sleeve into the upper part of the armhole, easing it slightly and evenly. Baste and stitch the sleeve from the sleeve side, starting the stitch at the sleeve seam. Overlock the seam allowances together. On the cap area, press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.
  8. Make 6 buttonholes along the right front edge and sew the buttons onto the left front.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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