CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Pocket flap - 2 QTY
- 2. Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 3. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 4. Side FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- 5. Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY
- 6. Pocket FACING - 4 QTY
- 7. COLLAR - 2 QTY
- 8. Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- 9. Front FACING - 2 QTY
- 10. Upper SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
- 11. Lower SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
- From LINING FABRIC: cut FRONT PANELs deducting the width of the front FACINGs. Cut SLEEVE hems with SEAM ALLOWANCES only. Cut BACK PANEL deducting the width of the back neckline FACING.
- 12. Upper pocket bag part - 2 QTY
- 13. Lower pocket bag part - 2 QTY
- 14. Pocket flap - 2 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce the front FACINGs, back neckline FACING, under COLLAR, and pocket flaps from the main fabric with interfacing. Additionally, press the interfacing to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES of the BACK PANELs.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the front FACINGs, under COLLAR, pocket flaps, and back neckline FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-adhesive interfacings are pressed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Stitch the center back seam up to the vent, press the integrated vent FACING (left BACK PANEL) along the fold line to the wrong side and sew to the hem, topstitch the left BACK PANEL along the seam.
- On the right vent SEAM ALLOWANCE, press the integrated FACING to the wrong side, sew to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES. Pin the vent along the matching lines.
- Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANELs and BACK PANELs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- On the FRONT PANELs, create WELT POCKETS WITH TWO FACINGs AND FLAPS: cleanly stitch one flap each from main and LINING fabric together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges close to the edge.
- From the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, press a strip of interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking.
- Fold two pocket FACINGs with the FRONT PANEL right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the FACINGs align with the center line of the pocket marking.
- Cut the FRONT PANEL lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the FACINGs!
- Press the cut edges away from the openings. Turn the FACINGs through the opening to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the FACINGs in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch into the attachment seams.
- Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch to the FACINGs precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching.
- Insert the open edges of the flaps between the FACINGs, stitch into the attachment seams of the upper FACINGs.
- From the inside, stitch the pocket bags to the flap attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachments. Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat.
- Set the under COLLAR into the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACINGs, set the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FACING and front FACINGs; press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clip curves.
- Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the front FACINGs, onto the main garment right side in and stitch the front edges and COLLAR; turn out and press; hand stitch the edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline.
- From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front edge and COLLAR, baste. Bottom edge: lay front FACINGs forward. Turn hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and sew. Turn front FACINGs to the wrong side.
- Construct the two-piece SLEEVE: reinforce the SLEEVE hem SEAM ALLOWANCE with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the SLEEVE, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open and turn the SLEEVE to the right side. Press the SLEEVE hem SEAM ALLOWANCE inwards.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes. Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated NOTCHES and pull the thread to match the corresponding distance on the garment's armhole. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, matching control NOTCHES, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side.
- Sew in shoulder pads.
- Stitch the LINING fabric pieces. Stitch the LINING to the bottom edges of the SLEEVES, the inner edges of the front FACINGs, and the back neckline FACING.
- Carefully pin the LINING in the vent area on the BACK PANEL. Cut the LINING along the vent accordingly, remembering the SEAM ALLOWANCES! Turn under the LINING edges and sew to the edges of the vent. Hem the LINING.
- Work buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to markings and sew on buttons.
