Single=Breasted Blazer with Flap Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• FACING - 2 QTY
• FLAP - 4 QTY
• CENTER BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
• SIDE BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• POCKET FRAME - 4 QTY
• Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY
• FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
• LOWER COLLAR - 1 QTY
• UPPER COLLAR - 1 QTY
• UPPER SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• LOWER SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• From LINING FABRIC:
• UPPER POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
• LOWER POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
• BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
• FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• UPPER SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• LOWER SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce the FRONT FACING pieces, back neckline FACING, lower COLLAR, and pocket flaps with interfacing. Additionally, iron FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem of the back panels.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the FRONT FACINGs, lower COLLAR, pocket flaps, and back neckline FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. Stitch the BACK PANEL along the center line.
3. Stitch the back princess seams.
4. On the FRONT PANELs, stitch and press open the darts.
5. Create WELT POCKETS WITH TWO FACINGS AND FLAPS: Stitch the flaps right sides together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges close to the edge. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, iron a strip of interfacing about 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place two pocket FACINGS on the FRONT PANEL, right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking and stitch, making sure the longitudinal edges of the FACINGS align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the FRONT PANEL along the line between the stitching, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS! Press the cut edges away from the openings. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the FACINGS in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch into the attachment seams. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the FACINGS precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Insert the raw edges of the flaps between the FACINGS, stitch into the attachment seams of the upper FACINGS. Fold and topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of one of the long sides of the underlap onto the upper pocket bag. From the inside, stitch the pocket bags to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the flap attachments and to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachments. Trim and stitch the pocket bags.
6. Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams.
8. Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and FRONT FACINGs; attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING and FRONT FACINGs; press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES, clip curves.
9. Place the upper COLLAR, joined with the FRONT FACINGs, onto the main garment, right sides together, and stitch the front edges and COLLAR; turn right side out and press; hand stitch the edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline. From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front edge and COLLAR, baste.
10. Create a "Two-piece SLEEVE" - Reinforce the hem allowance of the SLEEVE and the vent with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch the SLEEVE seams, leaving the vents open at the elbow seams of the SLEEVES. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower SLEEVE pieces above the vent marking. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES above the vent. Finish the SLEEVES with a hem. Press the edges of the vents on the upper SLEEVE pieces to the wrong side. Pin the vents, and from the inside, topstitch the edges of the vents to each other.
11. Create a "SLEEVE" - Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated markings and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, matching the control markings, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side. Attach shoulder pads.
12. Create a "LINING" - Create a ease pleat and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment. Stitch the darts on the LINING pieces. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES. Insert the LINING into the main garment, right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch the main garment with the LINING along the FRONT FACINGs and neckline. Create a ease pleat at the bottom and stitch the LINING to the hem allowance. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched SLEEVE section, then stitch this section closed.
13. Make buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to the markings and sew on the buttons.