Straight Skirt with Cut-On Side Seam

Name: Straight Skirt with Cut-On Side Seam
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5023
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5023

A women's lined straight skirt cut without side seams: each half is one piece, shaped by front, back and side darts. Flaps are stitched over the front darts, the centre front seam opens into a slit at the hem, and the back has a zip and a vent. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: thin wool or silk fabrics, for example silk crepe.

Tech. Description

Straight Skirt with Cut-On Side Seam

When To Wear

To the office with a blouse or a fitted jacket.
In lightweight wool for autumn and spring, in silk for warmer days.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, slightly narrowed towards the hem; two skirt halves joined at the centre front and centre back, with no side seams.

Waist: Straight waistband with an extension at the right back end, fastened with one button and a buttonhole.

Front: Centre front seam sewn down to the slit mark, pressed open. Darts pressed towards the centre, each front dart covered by a slanted flap, edgestitched and stitched on over the dart.

Back: Centre back seam with a zip at the top and a vent at the hem; the vent facing is cut on to the left back and topstitched diagonally at the top of the vent.

Lining: Full lining with basted pleats at the waist, sewn to the zip tape at the opening, hemmed separately and tacked at the vent.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A lined skirt with a zip, a cut-on back vent, a front slit and a waistband finished by stitching in the ditch.

Fabric Recommendations

Thin wool or silk fabrics, for example silk crepe.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Zip
1 button
Fusible interfacing (waistband, two of the four flap pieces)

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
Skirt - 2 pieces
Flap - 4 pieces
Waistband - 1 piece
From lining fabric:
Lining - 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: interface the waistband and two of the flap pieces.

Sewing Instructions

Sew the front, back and side darts and press them towards the center.
Stitch the flap pieces together, turn out and edgestitch. Stitch the flap over the front dart, covering it.
Sew the center back seam between the zipper opening mark and the vent mark. Insert the zipper.
Sew the center front seam down to the slit mark. Press the seam allowances open.
Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and hem. Press the cut-on vent facing (left back skirt) to the wrong side along the fold line and stitch it to the hem. Hem the long edge of the vent underlap (right back skirt) as narrowly as possible. Topstitch the left back skirt diagonally at the top of the vent, catching the underlap.
Sew the lining seam and baste the pleats. Place the lining inside the skirt, wrong sides together, and baste the upper edges. At the zipper opening, turn under the lining edge and sew it to the zipper tape.
Place the waistband on the upper edge of the skirt right sides together and stitch, leaving an extension at the right back end of the waistband for the closure. Stitch the waistband ends. Turn under the inner edge of the waistband and stitch in the ditch of the waistband seam from the right side. Make a buttonhole on the left end of the waistband and sew a button on the right end.
Hem the lining with a double-turned hem and tack it at the vent.