Long Relaxed-Fit Raglan Sleeve Coat
This women's sewing pattern presents a long, relaxed-fit coat defined by its distinctive raglan sleeves, sophisticated double-breasted closure, and elegant maxi length.
When To Wear
This coat is designed for versatile wear, suitable for:
- Formal Events & Ceremonies: Perfect for adding a refined layer to elegant evening or daytime attire.
- Professional Settings: A sophisticated outerwear choice for business environments.
- Elevated Everyday Wear: Ideal for adding a chic and polished touch to casual or smart-casual outfits.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A relaxed-fit, maxi-length silhouette that drapes elegantly, offering both comfort and a dramatic profile.
Collar & Lapel: Features a classic rounded notched lapel collar, creating a soft yet sophisticated neckline.
Closure: Double-breasted front with six buttons (three pairs) for a secure, stylish, and timeless fastening.
Sleeves: Distinctive raglan sleeves provide a comfortable, unconstrained shoulder line, finished with decorative sleeve tabs at the cuffs.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets are seamlessly integrated into the front panels, offering practicality with a clean aesthetic.
Back: A clean, unadorned back panel maintains the coat's sleek and flowing lines.
Length: Designed to a maxi length, falling well below the knee to create an impressive and warm outer layer.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Construction involves detailed elements such as raglan sleeves, a double-breasted front, collar shaping, and precise welt pockets, requiring careful execution and some prior sewing experience.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight woven fabrics with good drape and body, such as:
- Wool coatings (e.g., Melton, Boiled Wool, Gabardine)
- Wool blends
- Cashmere blends
- Heavyweight suiting fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 6 buttons
CUTTER'S MUST
- COLLAR - 2 QTY
- SLEEVE TAB - 4 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY on fold
- BACK SLEEVE HALF - 2 QTY
- FRONT SLEEVE HALF - 2 QTY
- BACK NECK FACING - 1 QTY on fold
- FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
- POCKET WELT - 4 QTY
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- UPPER POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
- LOWER POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
LINING: From LINING fabric, cut the FRONT PANELs (subtracting the width of the FRONT FACINGs), BACK PANEL (as a single piece on the fold in the middle with a pleat for ease of about 2cm deep, and also subtracting the width of the neck FACING), FRONT SLEEVE HALFs (subtracting the width of the FRONT FACINGs) and BACK SLEEVE HALFs (subtracting the width of the neck FACING). PIECES MARKED * ARE ALSO CUT FROM LINING FABRIC.
FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Reinforce the FRONT FACINGs, back neck FACING, and lower parts of the pocket welts with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Additionally, press FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES.
Sewing Instructions
- On the FRONT PANELs, create WELT POCKETS WITH A WELT: cleanly stitch the welts, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch the edges at a distance of 1.5 cm. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, press a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING about 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place the pocket welt and upper pocket bag right sides together with the FRONT PANEL, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the welt and pocket bag align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the FRONT PANEL lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the welts and pocket bags! Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Turn the welts and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, place the lower pocket bag onto the welt, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, stitch the welt into the attachment seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim and stitch the pocket bags, evening them out. Sew the welt to the FRONT PANEL along the short sides.
- Stitch the raglan seams on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, topstitch at a distance of 1.5 cm.
- Cleanly stitch the SLEEVE TABs, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch the edges at a distance of 1.5 cm.
- Stitch the upper SLEEVE seams, inserting the SLEEVE TABs into the seam. Stitch the lower SLEEVE seams and the side seams of the coat.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the FRONT FACINGs and the back neck FACING. Place the FRONT FACINGs and FACING right sides together with the jacket and cleanly stitch along the edges.
- Cleanly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour. Attach one COLLAR piece right sides together into the neckline. Attach the other COLLAR piece to the neck FACING and FRONT FACINGs. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Sew the pressed open SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower COLLAR attachment and the back neck FACING from the inside.
- Bottom edge: lay the FRONT FACINGs forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and sew. Turn the FRONT FACINGs to the wrong side. Topstitch the edges and COLLAR at a distance of 1.5 cm.
- Sew on shoulder pads.
- Stitch the cut pieces from the LINING fabric. Attach the LINING to the lower edges of the SLEEVES, the inner edges of the FRONT FACINGs, and the back neck FACING. Hem the LINING.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons.
