Classic Tailored Jacket with Darts
A women's fitted, single-breasted lined jacket shaped by darts on the fronts and back, with a notched collar, two-piece set-in sleeves, a breast welt pocket and two slanted double-welt pockets at the hip.
When To Wear
- To the office with a matching skirt or trousers.
- In spring and autumn over a blouse or a fine knit top.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by vertical darts on the fronts and back, ending at the hip.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the under collar is sewn into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and lower sleeve), eased into the armhole at the cap.
Front: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes on the right front, separate front facings. The fronts are fully interfaced.
Pockets: A breast welt pocket on the left front and two slanted double-welt pockets below the waist, made with frame pieces and an underlay on the pocket bag.
Back: Centre back seam and waist darts.
Finishing: Shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining with darts, sewn to the sleeve hems, front facings and back neckline facing, hemmed separately.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Three framed welt pockets cut into the fronts, a notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, two-piece sleeves and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight suiting fabrics that hold a fitted shape: wool suiting, wool blends, gabardine, linen blends.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (lining and pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, back neckline facing, 4 cm strips over the pocket markings)
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Pocket Frame - 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Frame - 4 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Back - 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Bag Of Upper Pocket - 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag Of Upper Pocket - 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Bag Of Lower Pocket - 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag Of Lower Pocket - 2 pieces
Fusible interfacing: reinforce the center front facings, back neckline facing and fronts; also press a strip of interfacing about 4 cm wide over each pocket marking.
Sewing Instructions
- Sew the darts on the back and fronts; sew the center back seam.
- Make the double-welt pockets on the fronts: on the wrong side of the front, press a strip of fusible interfacing about 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place two pocket frame pieces on the front right sides together, pin along the pocket marking and stitch, making sure the long edges of the frame pieces meet at the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the front between the stitching lines, and diagonally into the corners at the ends, taking care not to cut the frame pieces. Press the seam allowances open. Turn the frame pieces through the opening to the wrong side so that they form a neat frame, and baste. On the wrong side, place the lower pocket bag on the lower welt, pointing upwards, and from the right side stitch in the ditch of the lower welt seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag down. Fold under the seam allowance on one long edge of the pocket underlay and topstitch the underlay to the upper pocket bag. Place the upper pocket bag over the pocket on the wrong side and, from the right side, stitch in the ditch of the upper welt seam. Fold the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the welts, exactly from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim the pocket bags even and sew them together.
- Sew the shoulder and side seams.
- Place the center front facings on the fronts right sides together, pin along the front edges and stitch. Sew the shoulder seams of the center front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Stitch the upper and under collar together along the outer edge and turn out. Sew the under collar into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings. Press the seam allowances open. On the inside, stitch together the pressed-open seam allowances of the under collar seam and the back neckline facing seam.
- Hem the jacket.
- Sew the sleeve seams. Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Sew the darts on the back and front lining, then sew the lining pieces together. Sew the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the center front facings and the back neckline facing. Hem the lining.
- Make buttonholes on the right front; sew buttons on the left front.
