Tailored Vest with Back Cinch Bow
Introducing a classic women's tailored vest pattern, featuring a V-neckline, welt pockets, and a charming bow-like strap cinching the back waist.
When To Wear
This tailored vest adds a sophisticated touch to various outfits, making it perfect for:
- Business & Professional Settings: Provides a polished layer over a blouse for office wear or meetings.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: Elevates a casual top and trousers for a chic, put-together look.
- Layered Styling: Offers a versatile layering piece to add structure and warmth without sleeves.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A fitted, hip-length vest shaped with front and back princess seams and a center back seam.
Neckline: Classic V-neckline, designed to be worn over a collared shirt or blouse.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a four-button closure.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with the lining.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the lower fronts.
Back: A decorative strap sewn into the back princess seams gathers the back waist into a bow-like detail.
Hem: A subtle pointed front hem adds a classic touch, while the back hem is straight.
Length: Hip length, ending below the welt pockets.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise tailoring techniques, including welt pocket construction, princess seams, and lining a garment.
Fabric Recommendations
For a structured and refined vest, consider medium-weight fabrics with good drape and stability:
- Suiting fabrics (wool blends, gabardine, tweed)
- Linen blends
- Heavy cotton twill
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece (on fold)
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing; plus a strip about 4 cm wide over each pocket marking.
Sewing Instructions
- Fold each Strap right sides together, stitch along the long edge, turn right side out and press.
- Stitch the center back seam and the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), inserting the Straps into the princess seams.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front).
- On the front panels, create welt pockets: Fold each Off-Set Welt right sides together, stitch the short ends, turn right side out and press. On the wrong side of the front, press a strip of fusible interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place the welt and the Upper Pocket Bag on the front, right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the welt and pocket bag align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the front along the line between the stitching, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the welts and pocket bags! Press the seam allowances open. Turn the welts and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste. On the wrong side of the front, place the Lower Pocket Bag over the welt, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, stitch the welt into the attaching seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim and stitch the pocket bags. Topstitch the welt along the short sides to the front.
- Stitch the side seams.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Place the facings on the fronts right sides together, pin along the front edges and stitch.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces. Place the main garment and the lining right sides together and stitch around the entire outer edge and the armholes, leaving the shoulder seams open. Turn the pieces right side out.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the main garment. Hand stitch the shoulder seams of the lining pieces with blind stitches.
- Topstitch the finished garment along the edge.
- Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
