Jacket with Asymmetric Concealed Closure
Introduce a sophisticated sewing pattern for a women's tailored jacket, featuring an elegant asymmetrical front, a defined waist, and a modern concealed button closure.
When To Wear:
This versatile jacket is designed for a range of occasions, making it an ideal choice for:
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Professional Settings: Ideal for business meetings, office wear, or any professional environment where a polished look is desired.
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Smart Casual & Daytime Events: Perfect for stylish daytime outings, luncheons, or elevated casual ensembles.
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Evening Transition: a chic layer that can effortlessly transition from day to semi-formal evening events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, semi-fitted silhouette that gracefully shapes the torso and flares slightly at the hip, defining the waistline.
Neckline & Collar: Classic notched lapel collar, offering a sharp and professional frame for the face.
Closure: Features an elegant asymmetrical (off-centre) front edge with a concealed buttoned fly closure for a clean and modern finish.
Sleeves: Expertly crafted two-piece set-in sleeves provide a smooth, tailored fit.
Pockets: Two double-welt (framed) pockets without flaps on the lower front, just below the waist seam.
Back: Designed with an upper and lower back panel, a center back seam, a horizontal seam at the waist and vertical darts for shaping.
Length: Sits gracefully at hip length, providing versatile styling options.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. This pattern requires confident sewing skills including precise construction of double-welt pockets, a concealed fly closure, a tailored collar, and full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight fabrics with good body and a structured drape for a crisp, tailored finish:
- Wool suiting or blends
- Gabardine
- Medium-weight linen or cotton twill
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece on the fold
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Frame – 4 pieces
- From lining:
- Back lining – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Bag Of Lower Pocket – 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag Of Lower Pocket – 2 pieces
- Facing Of Hidden Button Placket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Front and Lower Front pieces; plus strips about 4 cm wide over the pocket markings.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the darts on the upper and lower back and front pieces. Join the upper and lower back pieces and the upper and lower front pieces. Stitch the center back seam.
- On the fronts, make the double-welt (framed) pockets: On the wrong side of the front, press a strip of fusible interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place two Lower Pocket Frame pieces right sides together with the front, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the long raw edges of the frames align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the front along the line between the stitches, diagonally towards the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to cut the frames! Press the seam allowances open. Turn the frames through the opening to the wrong side to form a neat frame (welts), and baste. From the wrong side of the front, place the Lower Pocket Bag Of Lower Pocket on the lower frame, pointing upwards, and from the right side stitch in the ditch of the lower frame seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Fold under one long edge of the pocket facing strip and topstitch it onto the Upper Pocket Bag Of Lower Pocket. From the wrong side of the front, place this second pocket bag over the pocket and from the right side stitch in the ditch of the upper frame seam. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the frames precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim the pocket bags evenly and stitch them together.
- In the same way, make the framed opening of the concealed (fly) button closure on the Center Front Facing, using the Facing Of Hidden Button Placket pieces.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams.
- Place the Center Front Facings right sides together with the fronts, pin along the front edges and stitch the front edges. Stitch the shoulder seams joining the front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Stitch the two collar pieces together along the outer edge and ends, turn and press. Stitch the under collar into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the facing neckline. Press the seam allowances open. From the inside, stitch together the pressed-open allowances of the under collar seam and the facing neckline seam.
- Hem the bottom of the jacket.
- Complete the sleeve seams. Set the sleeves into the jacket armholes, easing the sleeve caps.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch darts on the back and front lining, stitch the lining pieces together. Attach the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Hem the lining.
- Sew buttons to the left front.
