Asymmetrical Belted Blazer
A hip-length women's lined jacket with an asymmetric wrap front, a wide grown-on collar, pointed front hems, double-welt pockets with flaps and a self-fabric belt with a buckle worn through four belt loops.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light coat over a dress, or over a blouse and trousers.
- Belted at the waist, or open with the belt removed.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by princess seams on the front and back, and by the belt.
Length: Hip length; the fronts end in points below the back hem.
Collar: Wide collar cut in one with the fronts, joined at the centre back; the facing collar is made the same way.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam.
Front: Asymmetric wrap, fastened with one button and a hidden inner button; front darts end at the pocket line.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets with flaps on the fronts, flaps topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Waist: Belt topstitched 0.5 cm around the edge, with a buckle and punched holes; four belt loops on the princess seams.
Finishing: Front edges and hem topstitched 4 cm from the edge; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining, including the sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the left side seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A grown-on collar with a clipped corner at the neckline, double-welt pockets with flaps, two-piece sleeves, a bagged full lining and a wrap front with a hidden button.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin coating fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, back neckline facing, flaps, pocket facings)
- Shoulder pads
- 2 buttons
- Buckle
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 4 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical details). When stitching details, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Front, Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Flap (one layer of each flap) and Pocket Facing pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Back to Side), press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Cut the front along the pocket line, stopping 1.0 cm before the vertical side of the dart. Stitch the dart, trim the dart depth to 1 cm and press open. Secure the pocket opening with a stay tape or baste. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides. Trim seam allowances at flap corners, clip curves, turn right side out. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold pocket facings in half wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facings. Stitch a Pocket Bag to the flap. Stitch the Pocket Facings to the front. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch to the upper pocket facing. Stitch the second Pocket Bag into the seam of the lower facing, trim and stitch the pocket bags together.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the center back collar seam, press the allowances open. Stitch the grown-on collar into the back neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner; clip and press the allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings, press the allowances open. Stitch the center back collar seam of the facings, press the allowance open. Stitch the grown-on facing collar into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing, clipping the allowance at the corner; clip and press the allowances open.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the lower corner, front edge, and collar. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn front facings to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve), press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning later. Press allowances.
- Stitch the lining to the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
- Finish the bottom edge of the garment with lining. Turn right side out through the opening. Finish the lower edge of the sleeve with lining. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- Topstitch along the front edges and bottom hem 4 cm from the edge.
- Make the buttonholes on the front. Sew on the buttons: the main one and the hidden inner one.
- Overlock one long edge of the Belt-Loop strip. Fold it in three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut it into 4 belt loops. Topstitch belt loops to the princess seams at the waist.
- Fold the Waistband (belt) in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, press. Overlock the short side. Topstitch 0.5 cm around the perimeter. Thread and secure the buckle on the overlocked side of the belt. Punch the holes for the buckle prong.
