Structured Shirt with Curved Hem and Rolled-Up Sleeves
A women's pull-on tunic shirt with a shirt collar on a stand, a half button placket and a V-shaped centre front panel framed by angled seams. Buttoned flaps sit in the front seams, and the sleeves roll up and are held by buttoned tabs.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer with jeans, slim trousers or leggings, sleeves rolled to the elbow.
- For the office or travel, over trousers, with or without a belt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams on the back and angled seams on the front.
Length: Tunic length below the hip, with a curved shirt-tail hem.
Collar: Shirt collar on a separate stand, interfaced, with a button at the stand.
Front: Shoulder yokes, a V-shaped centre panel and two side inserts. The half placket, made of two interfaced folded strips, runs from the neckline to the point of the V; buttonholes on the right placket.
Pockets: Pockets on the front with interfaced flaps sewn into the seam between the centre panel and the side inserts; each flap closes with a button.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves; a tab stitched to the wrong side buttons onto the sleeve to hold it rolled up.
Back: Back yoke, centre back panel and two side backs joined by princess seams.
Finishing: Hems of the body and sleeves turned 1.5 cm and topstitched; shoulder and side seams pressed towards the back.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Collar on a stand, a half placket with clipped corners, flaps set into a seam, angled panel seams and sleeve tabs.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, collar stand, plackets, flaps)
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm; top pocket allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can range from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 1 piece
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Front – 1 piece
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Decorative Tab – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Stand Collar, Placket, Collar and Flap pieces.
- Stitch the Side Back pieces to the Center Back (princess seams), overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the centre. Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Press the seam allowance towards the yoke and overlock. Overlock the lower edge of the back. Turn the hem allowance to the inside and topstitch.
- Overlock the top edge of each Pocket. Turn the allowance to the inside and stitch it down at the side edges. Turn the side allowances to the inside and press. Place the Pocket on the Front at the markings and topstitch. Place the Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and lower edges. Turn the Flap right side out and press. Place the Flap right side down on the Front Inset (the lower edge of the Flap pointing away from the seam edge) and baste along the seam edge. Stitch the Front Inset to the Front. Overlock the seam allowance and press it towards the centre.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Overlock the seam allowance and press it towards the yoke. Overlock the lower edge of the front. Turn the hem allowance to the inside and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold each Placket in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Make the buttonholes on the right Placket. Stitch the Plackets to the right side of the Front along the long edges, stopping 1 cm from the lower end. Clip the Front seam allowance into the corners, stopping 1 mm from the stitching. Tuck the ends of the Plackets inside and stitch, securing the lower edge. Overlock the seam allowances.
- Place the upper Collar and under Collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the Collar. Trim the seam allowances. Turn the Collar right side out, shape and press. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together, insert the finished Collar between them, match the notches and stitch, stitching the ends of the Stand Collar at the same time. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked neckline seam line of the Stand Collar. Turn the Stand Collar right side out and press. Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the neckline. Turn under the seam allowance of the inner Stand Collar and stitch it into the seam.
- Fold each Sleeve Decorative Tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming the seam allowances at the corners, shape and press. Overlock the open short edge. Topstitch the Sleeve Decorative Tabs to the wrong side of the Sleeves at the markings.
- Stitch the Sleeve seams, press towards the back and overlock. Set the Sleeves into the armholes, press the seam allowances and overlock.
- Overlock the Sleeve hems, turn to the inside and topstitch.
- Sew the buttons onto the left Placket. Make buttonholes on the Sleeve Decorative Tabs, the Stand Collar and the Flaps. Sew the matching buttons onto the Sleeves, the Stand Collar, the front under the Flaps and the Placket.
