Structured Shirt with Curved Hem and Rolled-Up Sleeves

Name: Structured Shirt with Curved Hem and Rolled-Up Sleeves
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4989
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4989

A women's pull-on tunic shirt with a shirt collar on a stand, a half button placket and a V-shaped centre front panel framed by angled seams. Buttoned flaps sit in the front seams, and the sleeves roll up and are held by buttoned tabs. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: blouse fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Structured Shirt with Curved Hem and Rolled-Up Sleeves

When To Wear

In spring and summer with jeans, slim trousers or leggings, sleeves rolled to the elbow.
For the office or travel, over trousers, with or without a belt.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams on the back and angled seams on the front.

Length: Tunic length below the hip, with a curved shirt-tail hem.

Collar: Shirt collar on a separate stand, interfaced, with a button at the stand.

Front: Shoulder yokes, a V-shaped centre panel and two side inserts. The half placket, made of two interfaced folded strips, runs from the neckline to the point of the V; buttonholes on the right placket.

Pockets: Pockets on the front with interfaced flaps sewn into the seam between the centre panel and the side inserts; each flap closes with a button.

Sleeves: Set-in sleeves; a tab stitched to the wrong side buttons onto the sleeve to hold it rolled up.

Back: Back yoke, centre back panel and two side backs joined by princess seams.

Finishing: Hems of the body and sleeves turned 1.5 cm and topstitched; shoulder and side seams pressed towards the back.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Collar on a stand, a half placket with clipped corners, flaps set into a seam, angled panel seams and sleeve tabs.

Fabric Recommendations

Blouse fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (collar, collar stand, plackets, flaps)
10 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm; top pocket allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can range from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center back piece - 1 piece
- Side back piece – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front piece - 1 piece
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Placket — 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Stitch the back princess seams, overlock the allowances and press towards the center. Attach the back yoke to the back. Press the allowance towards the yoke and overlock. Overlock the bottom edge of the back. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
Overlock the top edge of the pocket. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch along the side edges. Fold the side allowances inwards and press. Place the pocket on the front piece according to the markings and topstitch. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Turn the flap right side out and press. Place the flap right side down on the front insert (the bottom edge of the flap pointing away from the edge) and secure along the princess seam. Stitch the front princess seam. Overlock the allowance and press towards the center.
Attach the yoke to the front piece. Overlock the allowance and press towards the yoke. Overlock the bottom edge of the front piece. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
Fold the plackets lengthwise, right side out, and press. On the right placket, make the buttonholes. Attach the plackets to the right side of the front piece along the long edge, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Clip the front piece allowance at the corners, stopping 1 mm from the stitching line. Tuck the ends of the plackets inwards and stitch, securing the bottom edge. Overlock the allowances.
Fold the upper collar and undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand to the neckline. Fold the allowance of the lower collar stand inwards and stitch into the seam.
Fold the tabs lengthwise in the middle, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming allowances at the corners, shape and press. Overlock the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs to the wrong side of the sleeves according to the markings.
Stitch the sleeve seams, press towards the back and overlock. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the allowances and overlock.
Overlock the sleeve hem, fold inwards and topstitch.
On the left front piece - sew on buttons. Make buttonholes on the tabs, collar stand, and flap. Sew on buttons on the sleeves, collar stand, flap, and placket.