Belted Lapel Vest Asymmetrical Hem
A women's lined sleeveless vest with a wrap front and a pointed asymmetric hem, a wide collar cut in one with the fronts, flap pockets and a buckled belt worn through belt loops.
When To Wear
- Over a blouse or a fine knit with trousers, for the office in spring and autumn.
- Over a long-sleeved dress or top as a sleeveless outer layer.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams and side panels, drawn in at the waist by the belt.
Length: Hip length at the back; the fronts drop to a point below the hip.
Collar: Wide collar cut in one with the fronts, joined by a centre back collar seam and standing up at the back neck.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with the lining.
Closure: Wrap front fastened with a buttonhole and button plus a hidden inner button.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets with lined flaps, flaps topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge. The pocket opening runs through the front dart.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Waist: Belt with a buckle and punched holes, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, held by four belt loops on the princess seams.
Finishing: Front edges and hem topstitched 4 cm from the edge.
Lining: Full lining, attached to the facings and the hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Double-welt pockets with flaps, a cut-on collar with a back seam set into the neckline and the facings, a bagged lining and a pointed hem.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, back neck facing, flaps, pocket facings)
- 2 buttons
- Belt buckle
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 4 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the back center seam, press allowances open.
- Cut the front along the pocket line, stopping 1.0 cm before the vertical side of the dart. Stitch the dart, trim the bulk to 1 cm and press open. Secure the pocket opening with a stay tape or baste. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides. Trim seam allowances at flap corners, clip curves, turn right side out. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold pocket facings in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark a guideline on the flap for attachment parallel to the top edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facings. Stitch the pocket lining to the flap. Stitch the facings to the front. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of facing attachment from the wrong side (stitching should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch to the upper pocket facing. Stitch the lower pocket lining into the seam of the lower facing attachment, trim and stitch the pocket lining.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the center seam of the collar, press allowances open. Attach the one-piece collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Stitch the center seam of the collar, press allowance open. Attach the one-piece collar to the neckline of the facing, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the front edges and collar. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn front facings to the wrong side and press.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the right side seam for turning later. Press allowances.
- Stitch the lining to the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
- Finish the bottom edge of the garment with lining. Turn right side out through the opening. Finish the armholes in two steps: first the back armhole, then the front armhole. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- Topstitch along the front edges and bottom edge 4 cm from the edge.
- Make buttonholes on the front. Sew on buttons: main and hidden.
- Serge one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 4 pieces. Topstitch the belt loops onto the princess seams at the waist.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, press. Serge the short side. Topstitch around the perimeter 0.5 cm from the edge. Thread and secure the buckle on the serged side of the belt. Punch holes.
