Drawstring Dolman Shirtdress
A women's button-through shirtdress with cut-on short sleeves, front and back yokes, a gathered neckline on a drawstring and an elasticated waist. Pockets set into the front yoke seams and two patch pockets on the skirt.
When To Wear
- In summer, on its own with sandals or flat shoes.
- On cooler days with a denim jacket or cardigan over it.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose bodice gathered into an elasticated waist, with a slightly flared skirt.
Length: Knee length, with a hem curving up towards the side seams.
Neckline: Wide round neckline with a casing formed by the facing; a decorative cord comes out through two buttonholes at the front and ties in a bow.
Sleeves: Short cut-on sleeves finished with a folded cuff turned up to the right side.
Front: Separate button plackets on both fronts, interfaced, with nine buttons from neckline to hem.
Pockets: Upper pockets with the opening in the front yoke seam and the pocket bags topstitched to the front; lower patch pockets with a rounded side edge and a turned and topstitched opening.
Back: Back yoke and a back cut on the fold, with no centre back seam.
Waist: A separate casing stitched to the inside along marked lines, with elastic held at each end by vertical stitching.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Pockets set into a yoke seam, button plackets, a drawstring neckline casing and an applied elastic casing.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, cuffs)
- 9 buttons
- Elastic for the waist
- Decorative cord for the neckline
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment – 1.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Placket - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Upper pocket - 4 pieces
- Lower pocket - 2 pieces
- Casing - 1 piece
- Neckline facing - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket - 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back yoke to the back, press seam allowances towards the yoke and overlock.
- Overlock the side and bottom edges of the upper pockets. Stitch the pocket piece to the front yoke, right sides together, press seam allowances towards the yoke. Stitch the pocket piece to the front, right sides together. Clip seam allowances at the pocket marking. Stitch the front yoke to the front from the edge to the pocket mark and from the second mark to the armhole, press seam allowances towards the yoke, overlock. Topstitch the pocket bags to the wrong side of the front.
- Overlock the opening edge of the lower pocket, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the free pocket allowances to the wrong side. Place the lower pocket on the front according to the markings and topstitch.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Make buttonholes at the upper edge of the front for the decorative cord. Place the neckline facing and the garment right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side. Press the lower edge of the facing inwards and topstitch, forming a casing.
- Press the inner edge of the placket to the wrong side. Place the placket and the front right sides together and stitch the edge of the front opening and the upper corner. Turn the placket to the wrong side and topstitch onto the front along the inner edge.
- Press the casing allowances around the perimeter to the wrong side. Place the casing on the wrong side of the garment and stitch along the marked lines. Thread elastic tape through the casing and secure with vertical stitches at the beginning of the casing.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve, overlock seam allowances. Turn the cuff to the right side.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- On the right placket, make buttonholes, on the left, sew on buttons. Thread the decorative cord through the upper casing.
