Hooded Zip Front Jacket
A women's hip-length jacket in firm knit fabric with a separating zip front, a stand collar and a buttoned-on hood. Princess seams front and back, side panels, patch pockets with zipped openings, and a full lining.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and autumn, over T-shirts and jumpers.
- With jeans, trousers or leggings for walks and travel; the hood buttons off when not needed.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Shaped by bust darts and princess seams on the front and back, with separate side panels; slightly flared towards the hem.
Length: Below the hip.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, interfaced. The lined hood, with a centre seam and a facing at the front edge, has buttonholes along its neck edge and buttons onto the collar stand seam.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with folded cuffs.
Closure: Separating zip, set between the front and the interfaced front facing.
Pockets: Lined patch pockets on the lower fronts. Each has a slanted zipped opening, and its lower part is stitched across to form a flap fastened with two buttons.
Back: Back cut on the fold, with princess seams.
Finishing: Hem finished with an interfaced facing and a topstitching line.
Lining: Full lining of the body and sleeves, attached to the facings and to the inside of the cuffs, turned through an opening in the left side seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Zips set into pocket openings, a separating zip set with facings, a bagged lining and a lined, detachable hood.
Fabric Recommendations
Firm, low-stretch knit fabric of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, hem facing, collar stand, hood facing, cuffs, pockets)
- Separating zip for the front
- 2 zips for the pockets
- 4 buttons for the pockets
- 10 flat buttons for the hood
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Side – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Hem Facing – 1 piece on fold
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Hood Facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back Lining – 1 piece on fold
- Side Lining – 2 pieces
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Hem Facing – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Hood Facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Hem Facing, one Stand Collar, one Hood Facing, the Cuffs and the Pockets.
- Stitch the bust darts, press the dart depths upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement on the Front. Mark the zip placement on the Pocket. Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from each end of the marking. Turn the allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Place the zip under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zip in place. Place the Pocket and its lining right sides together and stitch around, leaving an opening for turning. Clip the allowances, trim the corners. Turn the Pocket right side out, straighten, press. Topstitch the Pocket to the Front along the side edges and along the horizontal line, so that the lower part of the Pocket forms a flap. Repeat for the second pocket.
- Stitch the back princess seams joining the Side pieces to the Back, press the allowances open. Stitch the front princess seams joining the Side pieces to the Fronts, press the allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances open.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar into the neckline, clip the allowances and press them open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing, press the allowances open. Stitch the inner Stand Collar into the neckline of the facings, clip the allowances and press them open. Stitch the Hem Facing to the Center Front Facings, press the allowances open.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the Front, right sides together, and stitch all around along the front edge, inserting the separating zip, then along the hem edge and the Stand Collar edge. Clip the allowances at the curves, trim the corners. Turn the Center Front Facing together with the other facings to the wrong side, straighten, press.
- Stitch the Sleeve seam, press the allowances open. Set the Sleeves into the armholes, press the allowances.
- Stitch the Cuff into a ring, press the allowances open. Press the Cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the outer layer of the Cuff to the bottom of the Sleeve, press the allowances towards the Cuff.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the left side seam.
- Stitch the lining to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing and Hem Facing. Stitch the sleeve lining to the inner layer of the Cuff. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Secure together the neckline allowances of the outer and inner Stand Collar and the Cuff attachment allowances. Close the opening.
- Topstitch along the hem edge. Sew the buttons onto the Pockets.
- Stitch the centre seam of the Hood, press the allowances open. Attach the Hood Facing to the Hood, press the allowances towards the Hood Facing. Make up the hood lining in the same way with the second Hood Facing. Place the Hood and the hood lining right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Clip the allowances at the curves, trim the corners. Turn the Hood right side out, straighten, press. Close the opening.
- Make the buttonholes along the neck edge of the Hood. Sew the buttons onto the Stand Collar attachment seam.
