Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin silk fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 2 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Upper back part – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part - 1 piece on fold
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
- Neckline facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the neckline facing.
- Serge the center edges of the back yokes separately. Stitch the back yokes from the mark to the lower edge, press seams open, pressing the slit. Stitch along the slit at 0.1 cm. Attach the yoke to the back, press seam allowances towards the yoke, serge.
- Serge the center edges of the lower back part separately, press to the wrong side and topstitch at 0.1 cm from the edge. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front, press seam allowances towards the center and serge.
- Fold the center front part with wrong side in and stitch the pleats. Direct the pleat depths towards the side edge and press. Fold the lower front part with wrong side in and form the pleats. Direct the depths of the center pleats towards the center of the piece, and the side pleats towards the side edge and press. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop fasteners. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitch at 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Cut into two parts and adjust the length of the loops.
- Place the neckline facing pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer contour, inserting the loop fasteners on the right side. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked line of the neckline facing attachment seam. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the facing right side out, press. Stitch the outer facing to the neckline, press seam allowances towards the facing. Turn under the raw edge of the inner facing and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise with right sides out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip seam allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons on the left side of the facing.
