Inverted Pleat Skirt With Yokes And Insert

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: skirt fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 invisible zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 4 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back panel – 1 piece on fold
  • Front panel – 1 piece on fold
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front insert – 1 piece
  • Waistband – 1 piece
  • Belt loop – 1 piece
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Waistband – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the waistband piece with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the 5 cm long pleats on the front and back skirt panels from the wrong side according to the markings. Form inverted pleats and secure along the upper edge.
3. Attach the back yoke to the back panel. Press the seam allowance upwards and overcast. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
4. Attach the front yoke to the front panel. Press the seam allowance upwards and overcast. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam, clipping the allowance at the corner. Attach the front insert. Press the seam allowance towards the insert and overcast. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
5. Overcast the left side edges separately on each piece. Stitch the left side seam from the zipper marking to the bottom. Press the seam allowances open. Insert the zipper. Stitch the right side edge, overcast the allowances and press open.
6. Overcast one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 4 pieces. Topstitch the belt loops onto the skirt according to the technical drawing.
7. Fold the waistband lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short sides and the transitional end. Clip the allowances at the marking. Turn right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the waistband to the skirt, fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
8. Overcast the bottom edge of the skirt, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
9. Overcast the buttonhole and sew on the button. Topstitch the belt loops onto the waistband.