Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 3 cm; hem allowance for the bottom of the sleeve – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back part - 2 pieces
- Upper side back part - 2 pieces
- Upper side front part — 2 pieces
- Upper center front part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Lay and secure the pleats on the front neckline (depths directed from the center).
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the upper parts, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Overcast the lower edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch. (Alternatively, the lower edge can be finished with a narrow rolled hem. In this case, trim the lower edge allowance). Fold the sleeve with the upper part of the garment and secure along the princess seams and the upper armhole edge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back and front, press allowances towards the center of the pieces and overcast.
- Attach the lower parts of the dress to the upper parts, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and the zipper tape.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
