Cropped Asymmetrical Zipper Wrap Collar Jacket

Name: Cropped Asymmetrical Zipper Wrap Collar Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4888
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4888

A fitted, fully lined women's jacket at hip length, with a wide collar that wraps across the front and an asymmetric front edge closed by a separating zipper. Princess seams front and back and two-piece set-in sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Asymmetrical Wrap Collar Jacket

When To Wear

Over dresses, skirts and trousers at the office in spring and autumn.
As a light outer layer on cool days, zipped up to the collar.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back and darts on the back.

Length: Hip length, with a rounded lower front corner.

Collar: A wide, interfaced collar of two pieces attached to the neckline; it lies across the front and over the shoulders.

Closure: Asymmetric front edge with a separating zipper: one half is topstitched onto the left front along the markings, the other is caught in the seam between the right front and its facing. A buttonhole on the left front and a hidden button on the inside of the right front hold the overlap.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, the cap eased in; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Back: Centre and side back pieces joined by princess seams, with darts and a centre back seam.

Finishing: Interfaced centre fronts, front facings and back neck facing; jacket and sleeve hems (3 cm) fused.

Lining: Full lining, sleeves included, sewn to the facings and to the jacket and sleeve hems; the jacket is turned through an opening in the left sleeve lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A separating zipper set between the front and the facing, an eased two-piece sleeve with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing
Separating zipper
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads
1 button

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece

Attention: Back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Also fuse the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve hem.
Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
Stitch front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach collar to the neckline.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Place the left side of the separating zipper according to markings on the left front and topstitch. Place front facings and facing with the front right sides together and stitch the neckline, front edge, and bottom corner, inserting the right side of the separating zipper. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn facings right side out, shape seams, and press.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing. Press the bottom edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach lining to the bottom of the garment and to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
On the left front, make a buttonhole. On the wrong side of the right front, sew a hidden button.