Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; buckle; 2 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Back skirt - 1 piece on fold
- Right front skirt – 1 piece
- Left front skirt – 1 piece
- Right belt – 2 pieces
- Left belt – 2 pieces
- Small belt – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Back skirt - 1 piece on fold
- Right front skirt – 1 piece
- Left front skirt – 1 piece
Attention! Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Right belt – 1 piece
- Left belt – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Press allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the vest, press allowances open.
- Place the upper collar on the under collar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge and lapel. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn the front edges right side out, shape seams.
- Attach the under collar to the main garment's neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facings. Press collar attachment seam allowances open. And secure close to the seam.
- Stitch the lining seams. Attach the lining to the back neckline facing and front facings. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole.
- Form and secure the inverted pleat. Overlock the top edge of the pocket. Fold the top edge allowance inwards and topstitch. Fold the pocket allowances to the wrong side and press. Position the pocket according to the marks and topstitch. Stitch decorative lines along the side and bottom edges at 0.2 and 0.5 cm. Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the bottom and side edges. Trim allowances, clip at corners, turn right side out, and press. Stitch decorative lines at 0.2 and 0.5 cm. Make a buttonhole on the flap. Place the flap right side down on the right side of the front piece and topstitch 1 cm above the pocket. Fold the flap down and topstitch with two decorative lines at 0.2 and 0.5 cm.
- Stitch the side seams of the lower parts. Press allowances open. Stitch and press open the side seams of the lower lining parts. Place the lining on the lower part, stitch along the bottom and center seams. Clip allowances at corners, turn right side out, and press.
- Overlock the top and bottom edges of the small belt, fold inwards, and topstitch. Thread the buckle onto the belt and secure the belt ends. Stitch the side seam of the outer belts, inserting the buckle section. Press allowances open. Stitch the side seam of the inner belts, press allowances open. Attach the outer belt to the upper and lower parts of the vest. Press allowances towards the belt. Place the upper edges of the belts right sides together (the upper part of the vest remains between the belts) and stitch. Turn the inner belt down and press. Stitch the free edge of the belt. Trim allowances and turn. Fold the lower allowance of the inner belt inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer belt attachment. Stitch decorative lines at 0.2 and 0.5 cm.
- Make a buttonhole on the left belt. Sew on the inner button. Sew on the button on the pocket.
