Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining; shoulder pads; sleeve head rolls; fusible interfacing; 2 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front — 2 pieces
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing - 1 piece

Also, armhole areas on the back, garment hem, and sleeve hem are interfaced. ATTENTION! Lining pieces are cut deducting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the darts on the back, press the seam allowances towards the center.
3. Stitch the darts on the front pieces, press the seam allowances upwards.
4. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances open.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press the seam allowances open.
6. Cut a bias strip 3 cm wide and 10 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim the seam allowances and turn the piece right side out. Cut the rouleau into two parts, adjust the loop length.
7. Press the garment hem allowance to the wrong side. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down. Pin the front facing and the top of the garment, insert the loops. Stitch along the edge. Stitch the lower edge of the front facing to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
8. Fold the collars right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim the corners, turn the collar right side out and press. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line to the neckline. Attach the upper collar to the garment neckline, and the lower collar to the facing and front facing neckline. Press the seams open and secure them together.
9. Stitch and press open the sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
10. On the lining pieces, stitch the darts and seams, set the sleeves, leaving a technological opening in the sleeve. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening.
11. Sew buttons to the edge of the front opening.