Cropped Off-Shoulder Collared Jacket

Name: Cropped Off-Shoulder Collared Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4873
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4873

A short, fully lined women's jacket with a wide neckline and a broad collar lying over the shoulders, an edge-to-edge front fastened at the top with two buttons and rouleau loops, darts at the front and back and three-quarter set-in sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Off-Shoulder Collared Jacket

When To Wear

Over a dress or a sheath with a fitted waist, for the office, a theatre visit or a dinner.
In spring and autumn with a pencil skirt or slim trousers.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted and short, shaped with darts on the fronts and vertical darts on the back.

Length: Cropped, ending just below the waist.

Collar: Wide collar of an upper and an under collar, interfaced, stitched along the ends and outer edge and turned. The upper collar is set into the jacket neckline and the under collar into the facing neckline; the seams are pressed open and secured together.

Closure: Edge-to-edge fronts with no overlap; two rouleau loops cut from a 3 cm bias strip are caught in the front edge seam, and two buttons are sewn to the opposite edge. Below the buttons the fronts fall open.

Front: Interfaced fronts with front facings cut from the main fabric and joined to a back neck facing.

Sleeves: Three-quarter one-piece set-in sleeves, widening slightly towards the hem; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Back: One piece cut on the fold, with two vertical darts; the armhole areas are interfaced.

Finishing: Hem and sleeve hems interfaced and turned up 3 cm.

Lining: Full lining of the body and sleeves, cut from the main patterns less the facing widths, with its own darts; joined to the facings and hems and turned through an opening in a sleeve lining seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A collar set between the jacket and the facing, rouleau loops caught in the front edge, shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a full bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, collar, back neck facing, back armhole areas, hems)
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads
2 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Also, armhole areas on the back, garment hem, and sleeve hem are interfaced. Attention! Lining pieces are cut from the Back, Front and Sleeve patterns, minus the width of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing. Also cut from main fabric: a bias strip 3 cm wide and 10 cm long for the button loops.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Stitch the darts on the Back, press the dart intake towards the center.
Stitch the darts on the Front pieces, press the dart intake upwards.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances open.
Stitch the shoulder seams joining the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing, press the seam allowances open.
Cut a bias strip 3 cm wide and 10 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim the seam allowances and turn the piece right side out. Cut the rouleau into two parts, adjust the loop length.
Press the garment hem allowance to the wrong side. Place the Center Front Facing on the Front, right sides together. Pin the facing to the jacket, inserting the loops at the marks. Stitch along the front edge. Stitch the lower edge of the Center Front Facing to the Front exactly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm short of the inner edge of the facing. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
Place the two Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge, starting and ending exactly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim the corners, turn the collar right side out and press. Attach the upper collar to the jacket neckline, and the lower collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Press the seams open and secure them together.
Stitch and press open the sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
On the lining pieces, stitch the darts and seams, set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in one sleeve seam for turning. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Attach the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening.
Sew the buttons to the front edge opposite the loops.