Stand Collar Pintuck Tab Sleeve Blouse
A women's hip-length blouse with a stand collar, a curved front yoke with vertical tucks, a buttoned half placket ending in a point, and roll-up sleeves held by buttoned tabs.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer, sleeves rolled up and fastened with the tabs.
- Untucked over trousers or jeans: the hem is curved and rises at the side seams.
- With a skirt or trousers for office wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped with bust and waist darts on the front and waist darts on the back.
Length: Hip length, with a curved hem that is higher at the side seams.
Collar: Stand collar cut in two pieces, interfaced, buttoned at the front.
Front: A rounded bib-shaped yoke in two halves, with vertical tucks pressed towards the centre front. The lower front is cut in one piece on the fold.
Closure: Half placket from the collar to below the yoke, built from a longer and a shorter placket on the right side and a folded left placket. The upper placket ends in a point topstitched to the front, with a decorative button on the point.
Sleeves: Set-in, eased into the armhole. A tab stitched to the wrong side of each sleeve holds the rolled-up sleeve with a button.
Back: One piece with waist darts.
Finishing: Shoulder and side seams pressed towards the back and overlocked; hems of the body and sleeves turned up 2 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Even tucks on a curved yoke, a pointed half placket assembled from three pieces, a stand collar, and sleeve tabs placed by markings.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (upper placket, left placket, stand collar)
- 8 buttons (placket and collar, sleeve tabs, and the decorative button on the placket point)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Longer Placket – 1 piece
- Shorter Placket – 1 piece
- Left placket – 1 piece
- Sleeve Decorative Tab – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Longer Placket (upper placket)
- Left placket
- Stand Collar
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the pieces listed above.
- Stitch the waist and bust darts on the Back and Front. Press the waist darts towards the center of the pieces, and the bust darts upwards.
- Fold and stitch the tucks on the Yoke. Press the tucks towards the center front. Trim the Yoke to the pattern.
- Placket. Left side: fold the left placket lengthwise and press. Stitch one edge of the placket to the left Yoke, pressing the seam allowance towards the placket. Fold under the seam allowance of the inner side of the placket and topstitch it over the attachment seam. Right side: place the Shorter Placket and the Longer Placket right sides together. Stitch along the center edge, ending the stitching exactly at the marked seam line. Turn the plackets right side out and press. Place the Shorter Placket right side down on the wrong side of the right Yoke and stitch, pressing the seam allowance towards the placket. Lay the right Yoke over the left and join the plackets at their lower edge, folding back the upper (Longer) Placket so it is not caught in the seam. Stitch the Yokes to the Front. Overlock the seam allowance and press it towards the Front. Fold under the seam allowance of the upper placket, forming the point. Topstitch it from the right side in two steps: along the Yoke, folding the left part out of the way, and along the Front (around the point).
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the neckline seam line. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the stand right side out and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the blouse. Press the seams towards the Back and overlock.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the neckline, fold under the open edge of the inner Stand Collar and topstitch it over the attachment seam.
- Fold each Sleeve Decorative Tab lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long and one short edge. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, straighten and press. Overlock the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs to the wrong side of the Sleeves at the markings.
- Stitch the sleeve seams and overlock them. Set in the Sleeves, easing the sleeve cap. Overlock the seam.
- Press the hem allowances of the blouse and sleeves to the wrong side, fold under and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the placket and Stand Collar and sew on the buttons. Sew buttons onto the sleeves. Sew a decorative button onto the point of the placket.
