Jacket with Shaped Neck Band and Waistband

Name: Jacket with Shaped Neck Band and Waistband
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4773
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4773

A short, fitted women's jacket with a collarless round neckline finished by a shaped band, small dart tucks on the front below the band, a centre-front button fastening and an applied waist band with a decorative clasp. Princess seams, two-piece sleeves, fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Jacket with Shaped Neck Band and Waistband

When To Wear

As a suit jacket for the office, with a pencil skirt or slim trousers.
Over a dress for daytime events in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams from the armholes on the front and back.

Length: Just below the waist, at the high hip.

Neckline: Round neckline with a shaped band made of outer and inner neckline facings, stitched together, turned and sewn to the jacket; a small notch at the centre front.

Front: Darts on the centre fronts, stitched as short tucks under the neckline band. Edge-to-edge front with four buttons and buttonholes on the right front.

Waist: Interfaced waist band in three parts (back and two fronts), applied over the jacket and edge-stitched 0.1 cm from the folds, with a decorative clasp at the centre front.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap and shoulder pads.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Finishing: Interfaced front facings; front edges understitched 0.2 cm from the seam. 3 cm hem allowance on the jacket and sleeves.

Lining: Full lining with sleeves, sewn to the facings and to the jacket and sleeve hems.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A turned neckline band set between the jacket and the lining, an applied waist band, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads and a full bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, neckline facings, waist band)
4 buttons
Decorative clasp
Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom – 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches – they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces (outer and inner)
- Front Neckline Facing – 4 pieces (outer and inner)
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Waistband – 1 piece
- Front Waistband – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Front Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Front Waistband – 2 pieces
- Back Waistband – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, one Back Neckline Facing, two Front Neckline Facings, the Front Waistbands and the Back Waistband.
Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back) and press them open. Stitch the centre back seam and press it open.
Stitch the darts on the Center Front pieces along the markings. Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front) and press them open.
Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press the seam allowances open.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the outer neckline facings (Back Neckline Facing to Front Neckline Facings), press the seam allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the inner neckline facings in the same way. Place the outer and inner facings right sides together and stitch along the upper edge and the ends. Clip the seam allowances on the curves and trim the corners. Turn the band right side out and press. Stitch the band to the neckline of the jacket.
Stitch the side seams of the waistband (Back Waistband to Front Waistbands), press the seam allowances open. Press the long edges to the wrong side. Place the waistband on the jacket and topstitch 0.1 cm from the folds.
Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve), easing the Upper Sleeve and matching the notches; press the seam open. Press up the sleeve hem. Unfold the hem, stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches and easing the sleeve cap. Sew in the shoulder pads.
Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Stitch the Center Front Facings to the lining.
Place the Center Front Facing with the lining on the Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edges and the neckline, with the neckline band between the jacket and the lining. Stitch from the Front side. Understitch the front edge seam allowance onto the Center Front Facing 0.2 cm from the seam.
Stitch the lining to the hem of the jacket and to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the opening closed.
Make the buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front. Sew on the decorative clasp.