Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 10 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 1.2 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can range from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Lower back part - 1 piece on fold
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Right front - 1 piece
- Left front - 1 piece
- Right placket – 1 piece
- Left placket – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Right placket – 1 piece
- Left placket – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the inner collar stand, plackets, and cuffs.
- Attach the yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Mark and stitch bust darts on the front pieces, press depths upwards.
- Overcast the outer edges of the plackets. Fold the right placket with the right front, right sides together, and stitch the upper edge and the front edge. Clip seam allowances at the mark and on curves, turn the placket to the wrong side, press and topstitch onto the front. Fold the left placket with the left front, right sides together, and stitch the front edge. Clip seam allowances on curves, turn the placket to the wrong side, press and topstitch onto the front.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Turn the collar stand to the right side, straighten and press. Attach the upper collar stand to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press seam allowances and overcast. Create and secure a box pleat at the bottom of the sleeve.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Press the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, press seam allowances towards the cuff. Fold under the raw edge of the inner cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right placket. Sew buttons onto the left placket and on the cuffs under the pleats.
