Asymmetrical Panel Jacket
A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with an asymmetrical wrap front fastened by one button, princess seams front and back, and three-quarter two-piece sleeves with turn-back cuffs and button tabs. Bands along the neckline and hem are topstitched, and the jacket is fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over dresses, blouses and fine knits.
- At the office with trousers or a straight skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back and darts on the centre front panels.
Length: Hip length; the hem runs diagonally across the front to a point at the side.
Neckline: Collarless V-neck formed by the overlapping fronts.
Front: Asymmetrical wrap, right and left fronts cut differently. Neckline and lower bands are joined to each front, with seam allowances topstitched 0.7 cm from the seam.
Closure: One outer button fastened through a loop left open in the band seam, plus an inner button on the underlap.
Sleeves: Set-in, two-piece, three-quarter length, with a turn-back cuff topstitched 0.7 cm from the sleeve edge and a buttoned tab on each cuff.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams, neckline and hem bands.
Finishing: Edges topstitched 0.7 cm all around; thin shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the left sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Mirror-different asymmetrical fronts, a buttonhole loop worked in a seam, two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight coating fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (neckline and hem bands, cuffs)
- Thin shoulder pads
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). Attention! Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the face side!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Right side front – 1 piece
- Left side front – 1 piece
- Right center front – 1 piece
- Left center front – 1 piece
- Lower back facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Right lower front facing – 2 pieces
- Left lower front facing – 2 pieces
- Right front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Left front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper cuff – 2 pieces
- Lower cuff – 2 pieces
- Strap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Right side front – 1 piece
- Left side front – 1 piece
- Right center front – 1 piece
- Left center front – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Lower back facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Right lower front facing – 1 piece
- Left lower front facing – 1 piece
- Right front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Left front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Upper cuff – 2 pieces
- Lower cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Attach the lower back facing to the back, press seam allowances towards the facing and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Attach the back neckline facing to the back, press seam allowances towards the facing and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch darts on the center front pieces, press dart allowances upwards. Stitch and press open the front princess seams.
- Left front: Attach the lower facing to the front, clipping the seam allowance at the corner. Press seam allowances towards the facing and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Attach the neckline facing to the front, press seam allowances towards the facing and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Right front: Attach the lower facing to the front, clipping the seam allowance at the corner, starting the stitch exactly at the marked neckline line. Press seam allowances towards the facing and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Attach the neckline facing to the front, ending the stitch exactly at the marked center seam line, press seam allowances towards the facing and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the facings together, leaving the section between the marks unstitched, thus forming a buttonhole loop. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve and matching notches. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Stitch the cuff pieces together, press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff with the sleeve right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Press seam allowances, turn the cuff to the wrong side and topstitch 0.7 cm from the bottom of the sleeve.
- Fold the strap right sides together and stitch along the long and one short side. Trim seam allowances, turn the strap to the right side, press and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge. Attach the strap to the inside of the cuff according to the marking.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch and press seams of the lining pieces and inner neckline and hem facings similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Fold the lining with the garment right sides together and stitch all around the bottom, front edges, and neckline. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at curves, turn the garment to the right side, press. Topstitch 0.7 cm along the perimeter.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve through the technical opening, press seam allowances. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- Sew a button on the left front. On the left front, make a buttonhole, on the right front, sew an inner button. Make buttonholes and sew buttons on the straps and sleeves.
