Hooded Jacket with Ruched Pockets and Zippered Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: low-stretch knit fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: pocket binding; knit fusible interfacing; separating zipper; 2 non-separating zippers; 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Sleeve hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 4 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Middle front part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Hood – 2 pieces
  • Center hood part – 1 piece
  • Facing – 2 pieces
  • Strap – 2 pieces
  • Pocket placket – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Lower back part – 1 piece
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the back yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the side and lower back parts, press seam allowances open and serge. Attach the side and lower back parts to the back, press seam allowances towards the side seam and serge.
3. Cut the pocket placket from binding fabric, press it lengthwise in half with the right side out. Shape the binding to the pocket opening.
4. Place the pocket bag on the right side of the middle front part, insert the binding between them and stitch around the pocket opening. Fold the pocket bag to the wrong side, press. Place the detail on the middle front part and secure along the edges. Stitch the pocket bag edges, serge seam allowances.
5. Attach the front yoke to the front, press seam allowances upwards, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the side and lower front parts, press seam allowances open and serge. Attach the side and lower front parts to the front, press seam allowances towards the side seam and serge.
6. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch side seams from armhole to notch, clip seam allowances at the notch, press open and serge.
7. Fold the placket lengthwise in half with right sides together and stitch the lower corner. Turn the placket right side out, straighten, press. Serge the inner edges of the facings. Place the outer part of the right placket with the right front, right sides together, and stitch. Attach the right facing to the inner part of the placket, inserting the separating zipper between the pieces. Place the outer part of the left placket with the left front, right sides together, insert the separating zipper between the pieces and stitch. Attach the left facing to the inner part of the placket.
8. Attach the side parts of the hood to the center part, press seam allowances towards the center part and serge. Serge the inner edge of the hood facing. Place the facing with the hood and stitch the outer edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side, press. Topstitch the facing to the hood.
9. Set the hood into the neckline, press seam allowances, serge. Attach the facings into the hood attachment seam. Turn the garment right side out, press.
10. Stitch the seam of the upper sleeve part, press seam allowances and serge. Attach the non-separating zipper to the lower sleeve part, forming a loop. Stitch the upper and lower sleeve parts, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
11. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, press seam allowances and serge.
12. Serge the upper edges of the inner lower back and front parts. Place the pieces with the garment and stitch the lower edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, fold the inner parts to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam.
13. Serge the lower sleeve edge, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
14. Fold the strap lengthwise in half with right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the strap right side out, close the opening. Topstitch the strap to the side seam, sew on buttons.