Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 zipper; 1 button; lining fabric.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Front half – 2 pieces
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing right – 2 pieces
- Front facing left – 2 pieces
- Fly shield – 1 piece
- Side part – 2 pieces
- Belt loop – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing – 1 piece
- Front facing right – 1 piece
- Front facing left – 1 piece
- Fly shield – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pattern pieces with fusible interfacing. Interface the pocket opening with a 1 cm wide fusible stay tape.
- Stitch the side edges of the front and back facings. Press the side seams of the facings open.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the back pant half. Press the darts towards the center. Overlock the back center edge. Stitch the center back seam and press it open.
- Place the pocket bag on the front pant half, right sides together, and stitch around the pocket opening. Fold the pocket bag to the wrong side and press. Topstitch along the pocket opening at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the pocket and press. Align the front pant half with the side part at the marking that defines the pocket opening. Stitch and overlock the pocket lining. Secure the side part to the front pant half along the top and side edges with a 1 cm seam.
- From the left front half, cut off the integrated fly extension, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance along the center seam. Overlock the front center edge and the fly extension edge.
- Stitch the center seam of the front halves, starting the stitch at the edge of the integrated fly extension. Press the integrated fly extension to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the integrated fly extension of the right half. Topstitch along the marked line on the right pant half. Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and stitch the short bottom and long edges. Overlock the open edges of the fly shield. Stitch the fly shield to the zipper attachment seam on the left half. Place a bar tack at the end of the zipper on the right side of the pants. On the wrong side, connect the bottom ends of the integrated fly extension and the fly shield.
- Stitch, press open, and overlock the side seams. Stitch, overlock, and press the inseams.
- Fold the facing pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Turn the facings right side out and press. Topstitch the facing seam to the inner facing at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seam. Overlock the bottom edge of the inner facings.
- Fold the belt loop lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn it right side out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold, and press. Cut the belt loops to size, mark the placement of the belt loops. Stitch the belt loops to the bottom edge of the outer facing.
- Stitch the facings to the upper edge of the pants, aligning the side seams. Stitch the corners of the facings. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch the overlocked edge of the inner facing into the attachment seam. Topstitch the belt loops to the upper edge of the facings.
- Overlock the hem allowance, press it to the wrong side, aligning the marked hemline with the notches, and hem with blind stitches. Turn up the bottom edge of the pants to the right side, forming a cuff. Secure it at the side and inseams with a few stitches.
- On the right facing, make a buttonhole, and on the left, sew on a button.
