Long Sleeve Shirtdress with Pockets
A women's straight shirtdress above the knee, with a shirt collar on a stand, a buttoned front placket, two patch pockets with flaps and a curved hem. At the back, a yoke and a horizontal stitched tuck.
When To Wear
- For everyday wear in spring and summer, on its own or over leggings.
- In cooler weather, worn open as a light layer over a top and trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, loose fit with bust darts.
Length: Above the knee, with a curved hem that rises at the sides.
Collar: Shirt collar on a stand, topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge; the stand fastens with a button.
Front: Separate interfaced button placket, buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a short opening at the lower sleeve seam and buttoned cuffs.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the lower front, with interfaced flaps topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge, sewn above the pockets and turned down.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with a yoke topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam and a horizontal tuck stitched across the lower back.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A two-piece collar on a stand, cuffs and a front placket with buttonholes, flapped patch pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Dense blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (placket, collar, collar stand, flaps, cuffs)
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. Pocket top edge allowance – 2.0 cm. Other allowances – 1.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Yoke - 1 piece
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 2 pieces
- Placket - 2 pieces
- Pocket - 2 pieces
- Flap - 4 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket - 2 pieces
- Collar - 1 piece
- Collar stand - 1 piece
- Flap - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Form and stitch the pleat on the back, folding the piece right side out. Press the pleat. Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances upwards, overlock, and topstitch 0.1 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the bust darts, press depths upwards.
- Overlock the top allowance of the pockets, press to the wrong side, and topstitch. Press the side and bottom allowances of the pockets to the wrong side. Place pockets on the front according to markings and topstitch.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim corner allowances of the flaps and turn right side out. Shape the seams and press. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Overlock the raw edge of the flaps. Attach flaps to the front above the pockets, turn down, and topstitch.
- Press the placket piece in half lengthwise, right side out. Attach the outer placket to the blouse, press allowances towards the placket. Fold the raw edge of the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer placket.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Place the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the prepared collar stand right side out and press.
- Attach the outer collar stand with collar to the neckline, fold the raw edge of the inner collar stand inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.1 cm along the collar and collar stand.
- Overlock sleeve edges. Stitch the sleeve seam from the mark upwards, press allowances open. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the fold along the crease. Set sleeves into armholes. Overlock allowances and press towards the sleeve.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch the side seams. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the collar stand and cuffs.
