Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; 2 snap fasteners.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the bottom of the dress – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 1 piece on fold
- Upper side part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower side part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Upper back part - 1 piece on fold
- Upper side part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower side part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
ATTENTION! Lining pieces are cut deducting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Stitch the upper side part to the upper back part, press seams open.
- Stitch darts on the upper front parts, press depths downwards. Stitch the upper side part to the upper front part, press seams open.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams of the upper parts. Press seams open.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing. Press seam open.
- Fold the upper collar with the undercollar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, straighten and press.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front part, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn facings right side out, straighten seams.
- Attach the undercollar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the back neckline facing and front facings. Press collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the lower side part to the lower back part, press seams open. Stitch the lower side part to the lower front part, press seams open.
- Stitch the upper and lower parts of the dress, press seams upwards.
- Stitch and press open the elbow and front sleeve seams. Set sleeves into armholes matching notches, easing the sleeve cap.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends from the fold to the mark. Trim seam allowances at the corner, clip at the mark. Form the cuff into a loop and stitch the sections from the mark to the raw edge. Turn the cuff right side out, straighten, press. Fold the cuff with the sleeve, align the cuff seam with the mark and attach to the lower edge. Turn the cuff down.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the dress right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening.
- Sew on snap fasteners according to the marks.
