Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: jacket fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, companion fabric. YOU ALSO NEED: lining; zipper; synthetic padding.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom — 3 cm, all other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece with fold
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From main fabric 2:
- Lower back part – 1 piece with fold
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag — 4 pieces
- Pocket bag — 4 pieces
- From synthetic padding:
- Upper back part – 1 piece with fold
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Lower back part – 1 piece with fold
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece with fold
- Lower back part – 1 piece with fold
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pocket opening allowance with fusible interlining.
- Place synthetic padding pieces on the wrong side of the main fabric pieces and secure along the contour. Then treat as one piece. Stitch decorative lines along the marked lines on the front and back, securing the top to the synthetic padding. Stitch a decorative-securing stitch along the bottom of the sleeve.
- Stitch pocket bags to the upper and lower front parts. Start and end the stitch strictly at the pocket opening marks. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, simultaneously facing the pocket bags. Press allowances open through a press cloth.
- Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Press allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline. Clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing. Press allowances open. Attach the inner collar stand to the neckline. Clip and press allowances open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, inserting the zipper, simultaneously facing the collar. Start and end the stitch strictly at the marked bottom line.
- Set the sleeves into the jacket. Stitch the side seam simultaneously with the sleeve seam.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Set the sleeves.
- Secure the neckline and collar stand attachment allowances. Stitch the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Stitch the bottom edge of the lining to the bottom edge. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn right side out.
