Collared Jacket with Cuffed Three Quarter Sleeves

Name: Collared Jacket with Cuffed Three Quarter Sleeves
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4575
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4575

A women's fitted, fully lined jacket ending just below the waist, with princess seams front and back, a horizontal seam that adds a separate lower panel with inserted flaps, a stand collar with narrow revers and a single-button front. Two-piece sleeves with a gathered cap end in shaped cuffs below the elbow. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Collared Jacket with Cuffed Three Quarter Sleeves

When To Wear

For the office over a blouse or dress, with a skirt or trousers.
In spring and autumn as a light outer layer.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams and back darts, with a separate lower panel below the waist seam.

Collar: Stand collar of two pieces, the outer stand interfaced; the front edges turn back into narrow revers below it.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, eased into gathers at the cap, three-quarter length. The cuffs are doubled, interfaced, and have a shaped cutout.

Front: Single-breasted with one button and buttonhole; centre fronts and facings interfaced.

Pockets: Decorative flaps on the fronts, sewn into the seam joining the lower front panel.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams, darts and a lower back panel cut in one piece.

Finishing: Shoulder pads and sleeve heads; 3 cm hem allowance.

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, attached to the front facings and back neck facing, with an inner collar stand.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Princess seams, a stand collar set between the jacket and lining, shaped two-layer cuffs, a gathered sleeve cap with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and bagging a full lining through a sleeve seam opening.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, cuffs, outer collar stand)
1 button
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the jacket bottom 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Lower back – 1 piece
Center front – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Lower front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Front facing – 2 pieces
Cuff – 4 pieces
Collar stand – 2 pieces
Flap – 4 pieces

From lining fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower front – 2 pieces
Lower back – 1 piece
From fusible interlining: center front, back neckline facing, cuff, front facing, outer collar stand. Attention: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
On the back, stitch the darts. Press the dart allowances towards the center. On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam. Press the allowances open. Attach the lower back piece. Press the allowance upwards.
Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides. Trim the allowances, clip the corners. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
On the front, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances towards the center. Attach the lower front piece, inserting the flaps. Press the allowance upwards.
Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline. Press the allowances open.
Along the sleeve cap, stitch a basting line with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Clip the cuff allowance at the mark. Stitch the cuff edge from the upper edge to the mark. Press the allowance open. Place the cuffs right sides together and stitch along the lower edge and the shaped cutout. Trim the allowances. Turn the cuff right side out and press. Attach the outer cuff to the sleeve. Press the allowance downwards. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Attach shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing. Press the allowances open. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Attach the inner collar stand.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, bottom, and collar stand. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Secure the allowances of the outer and inner collar stand attachments together. Secure the allowances of the waist seams together. Close the opening in the sleeve.
On the right front, make the buttonhole, and on the left front, sew on the button.