Fitted Collared Long Sleeve Blazer

Name: Fitted Collared Long Sleeve Blazer
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4542
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4542

A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with a wide shawl-type collar, princess seams front and back, a flared peplum joined at the waist and a single decorative fastener at the front waist seam. Fully lined, with two-piece sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: thin, pliable suiting fabric made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Collared Long Sleeve Blazer

When To Wear

At the office with a pencil skirt or straight trousers.
Over a slip dress or a fitted top for evening.
In spring and autumn as a light suit jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting bodice shaped by princess seams, with a flared peplum below the waist seam.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Wide shawl-type collar cut as a separate piece, with a centre back seam in both the upper and under collar, set into the neckline and front edges and forming a deep V opening.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam, eased into the armhole; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Front: Princess seams from the armhole to the waist seam. The fronts meet edge to edge and close with one decorative fastener sewn into the seam between the upper and lower front. The front facing is cut in two parts (upper and lower).

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts, with a separate lower back peplum joined at the waist.

Waist: Waist seam all round; each lower front has one pleat folded in and secured.

Finishing: Front edges, neckline and hem stitched to the facing in one pass; the jacket is stitched to the facing under the collar to hold it in place.

Lining: Full lining cut from the main pieces less the facings, with a lining peplum that repeats the front pleat; it is joined to the jacket along the waist seam and turned through an opening in the left sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, a collar set between the jacket and the facing, two-piece sleeves with sleeve heads and shoulder pads, and a full lining joined at the waist seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Thin, pliable suiting fabric made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, collar, front facings, back neck facing, garment hem and sleeve hems)
Decorative fastener
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Center Back – 2 pieces
Side Back – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Center Front – 2 pieces
Lower Back – 1 piece
Lower Front – 2 pieces
Collar – 4 pieces
Upper Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Lower Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

From lining fabric:

Center Front – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Center Back – 2 pieces
Side Back – 2 pieces
Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower Back – 1 piece
Lower Front – 2 pieces

Attention: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

From fusible interfacing:

Center Front – 2 pieces
Collar – 2 pieces
Upper Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Lower Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Center Front, Collar, front facing and Back Neckline Facing pieces, as well as the hem of the garment and sleeve hems.
On the Center Back pieces, stitch the darts and press them towards the center. Stitch the Center Back to the Side Back pieces (princess seams) and press open. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Attach the Lower Back to the back.
Stitch the Center Front to the Side Front pieces (princess seams) and press open. On each Lower Front, fold and secure the pleat. Attach the Lower Front to the front.
Stitch and press open shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
Place the Collar pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch the center back seams of the upper collar and of the under collar. Press seams open. Place the upper and under collars right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach collar to neckline and front edges.
Stitch the Upper Sleeve to the Lower Sleeve along the elbow seam and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap. Insert the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Join the Upper Center Front Facing to the Lower Center Front Facing. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the front facings. Stitch and press open the side seams of the inner (lining) Lower Back and Lower Front pieces. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the lining Lower Back to the lining. On the lining Lower Front, fold a pleat as on the main fabric.
Sew the decorative fastener into the seam joining the upper and lower front parts.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch all around the front edge, neckline, and bottom of the garment. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Turn the jacket right side out, shape seams, press.
Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Stitch a securing line under the collar, topstitching the main garment to the front facing. Secure the jacket to the lining along the attachment line of the lower parts. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.