Jacket with Shawl Collar
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, fitted knit jacket featuring a soft cut-on shawl collar, front and back princess seams, and a striking contrasting binding.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for a range of occasions, providing both comfort and style:
- Smart Casual & Everyday Elegance: Its comfortable knit fabric and stylish design make it perfect for elevated daily wear.
- Professional Settings: Paired with tailored trousers or a skirt, it offers a sophisticated look for the office.
- Evening & Social Gatherings: The elegant silhouette and contrasting details allow it to be dressed up for social events or dinners.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a modern, fitted silhouette with princess seams on both the front and back for a flattering fit.
Collar: a soft shawl collar cut in one with the front, framed by a continuous contrasting binding along its edge, the front opening and the hem.
Closure: a two-button single-breasted front closure.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves, offering a tailored fit and finished with a contrasting binding at the hem.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the front, each featuring a contrasting binding along the upper edge.
Back: Contoured back with a center back seam and princess seams for a smooth, sculpted fit.
Hem: a clean hemline with rounded front corners, finished with a contrasting binding.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise seam matching for princess seams, setting in two-piece sleeves, and applying decorative binding.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose dense knit fabrics that offer both structure and comfort for this tailored jacket:
- Dense knit fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Knit fusible interfacing
- Thin shoulder pads
- 2 buttons
- Contrasting knit binding (approximate length is given on the Upper Sleeve pattern piece)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From knit fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing. Apply an additional fusible stay tape along the back neckline.
- Stitch the princess seam on the front (Center Front to Side Front). Overlock the seam allowances and press towards the center. Bind the upper edge of the Pocket with the binding. Mark the pocket placement and topstitch the Pocket onto the front.
- Stitch the dart on the Center Back. Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press open and overlock. Stitch and overlock the center back seam. Press the seam allowances to the left. Stitch the center back seam of the collar and press the seam allowances open. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press open. Clip the shoulder seam allowance of the front at the corner and stitch the collar into the back neckline. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facing and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the collar on the Center Front Facing and press open. Clip the corner on the Center Front Facing and stitch the collar part into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing. Press the seam allowances open. Overlock the outer (free) edges of the facings.
- Place the jacket and the facings wrong sides together and pin, matching the outer edges. Bind the front edges, collar and lower edge of the jacket with the binding.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve). Overlock the seam allowances and press towards the Upper Sleeve. Stitch the front sleeve seam. Overlock the seam allowances and press towards the Upper Sleeve. Bind the lower edge of the sleeve with the binding.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons onto the left front.
