Empire Waist Knee-Length Hooded Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL side – 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
5. BACK SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
6. FRONT SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
7. FACING – 2 QTY
8. BACK neckline FACING – 1 QTY
9. SLEEVE upper part – 2 QTY
10. SLEEVE lower part – 2 QTY
11. Hood — 2 QTY
12. Welt – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL side - 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
4. BACK PANEL side – 2 QTY
5. BACK SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
6. FRONT SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
7. SLEEVE upper part – 2 QTY
8. SLEEVE lower part – 2 QTY
9. Hood — 2 QTY
10. Large pocket bag – 2 QTY
11. Small pocket bag – 2 QTY

ATTENTION: FRONT PANEL, BACK PANEL, and hood LINING pieces are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the FACINGs and the back neckline FACING, and the SEAM ALLOWANCE along the outer edge, respectively.

FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FRONT PANEL center, FACING, back neckline FACING, SLEEVE hem.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the designated pieces.
2. On the BACK PANEL, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the center back seam on the upper and lower parts.
3. Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the FRONT PANEL along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the FRONT PANEL along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges together.
4. Stitch and press open the side seams of the coat on the lower and upper parts. Stitch the shoulder seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Attach the lower part of the coat to the upper part. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Overlock the bottom edge.
5. Stitch the hood seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the hood seam on the LINING, press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side. Finish the outer edge with the LINING. Secure the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the bottom edge and then treat as one piece.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and the FACING. Insert the hood into the neckline of the main garment.
7. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch around the front edge and neckline, leaving the hood between the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the main garment and the FACING. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners. Turn the front edges out, straighten the seams, and press.
8. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press up the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
9. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES, easing the SLEEVE cap. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the SLEEVES. Overlock, fold, and topstitch the bottom edge of the LINING.
11. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGs and the back neckline FACING. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the SLEEVE. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed.
12. Fold the bottom edge of the coat inwards and topstitch.
13. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.