Coat with Wrap-Over Collar and Asymmetric Closure

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
3. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
4. FACING – 2 QTY
5. WELT – 2 QTY
6. BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
7. COLLAR – 2 QTY
8. BELT – 1 QTY
9. WING – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
3. SLEEVE LINING – 2 QTY
4. SMALL POCKET BAG – 2 QTY
5. LARGE POCKET BAG – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, WELT, BACK NECK FACING, upper COLLAR.

The BACK PANEL cutting pieces are cut according to the upper patterns, minus the width of the neck FACING and plus the wing.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, back neck FACING, upper COLLAR, armhole edge on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL, and wing. Fuse the pocket placement area on the FRONT PANEL.
2. On the wrong side of the BACK PANEL pieces, fuse the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left BACK PANEL along the vent fold line. Align the pieces along the center seam. Stitch the center edge of the BACK PANEL and the vent corner, stopping 1 cm from the vertical vent edge. Clip the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE corner on the right part. Press open the center SEAM ALLOWANCES, press the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES, and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
3. Stitch and press the darts on the FRONT PANEL. Press the dart fullness downwards.
4. Mark the pocket placement. Press the WELT in half lengthwise, wrong side in. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the WELT. Attach the WELT to the FRONT PANEL along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the FRONT PANEL along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the WELT and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
5. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side edges. Attach the wing to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the wing.
6. Stitch the shoulder edges of the back neck FACING and FACING. Press the seams open.
7. Place the FACING and FACING right side down onto the right side of the coat and stitch the fronts with the FACINGs.
8. Fold the COLLAR pieces right sides together. Stitch the outer edge and ends of the COLLAR. Turn the COLLAR out and press. Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL.
9. Attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING and FACING. Press the seam open. Secure the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the seams.
10. Stitch the SLEEVE seam. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE open. Attach the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Attach the shoulder pads.
11. Serge and press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the garment.
12. On the LINING fabric cutting pieces, stitch the seams and attach the SLEEVES.
13. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGs and the back neck FACING. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the SLEEVE. Near the vent, cut the LINING and secure it to the vent edges. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the garment.
14. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the belt through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
15. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes. Sew on buttons accordingly.