Belted Fit-and-Flare Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Central upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
2. Side upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
3. BACK PANEL Yoke – QTY 1
4. Lower BACK PANEL – QTY 1 on fold
5. Central upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
6. Side upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
7. Lower FRONT PANEL — QTY 2
8. FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL — QTY 2
9. BACK PANEL neckline FACING – QTY 1
10. Underlap – QTY 2
11. Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
12. Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
13. CUFF – QTY 2
14. Lower COLLAR – QTY 1
15. Upper COLLAR – QTY 1
16. Underlay – QTY 2
• From LINING fabric:
1. Central upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
2. Side upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
3. Lower BACK PANEL – QTY 1 on fold (cut according to main fabric piece)
4. Central upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
5. Side upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
6. Lower FRONT PANEL — QTY 2
7. Back SLEEVE – QTY 2
8. Front SLEEVE – QTY 2
9. Pocket bag – QTY 4
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: upper COLLAR, underlap, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, underlay, CUFF, garment hem SEAM ALLOWANCES.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
2. Stitch the BACK PANEL princess seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the center back seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Attach the lower SLEEVE to the armhole of the side BACK PANEL, clip and press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
3. Attach the side upper FRONT PANEL to the upper SLEEVE, clipping the FRONT PANEL SEAM ALLOWANCE at the corner. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
4. Stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK PANEL yoke and the central upper FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
5. Attach the upper SLEEVE with the side FRONT PANEL to the BACK PANEL yoke and the central upper FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
6. Stitch in one continuous seam from mark to mark the upper SLEEVE and the BACK PANEL yoke, and the lower SLEEVE and the BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
7. Stitch the lower SLEEVE edge and the side edge in one continuous seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
8. Mark the underlay attachment line on the lower pocket bag. Place the underlay on the pocket bag, right side down, and stitch. Fold the underlay up, align edges, and press. Attach the pocket bag with the underlay to the FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL, attach the pocket bag to the lower FRONT PANEL. Attach the FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL to the lower part, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags.
9. Stitch the side seams of the lower BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open and serge. Stitch the upper and lower parts of the coat, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards.
10. Fold the CUFF with the SLEEVE, right sides together, and stitch the CUFF ends and the lower edge, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn the CUFF right side out, shape corners, press.
11. Place the underlap on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Attach the lower edges of the underlaps to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge: in the fastening area – to the underlap, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
12. Fold the COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the seam strictly at the marked COLLAR attachment line to the neckline. Turn the COLLAR right side out and press.
13. Stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK PANEL neckline FACING and the underlap. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the main garment, and the lower COLLAR to the neckline of the BACK PANEL FACING and underlap. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Secure the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the seams. Serge the lower edge, press to the wrong side. Attach shoulder pads.
14. On the LINING pieces, stitch the seams and attach the SLEEVES. Serge the side seams of the lower part. Fold the lower LINING edge twice by 1.5 cm and topstitch. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the underlaps and the BACK PANEL neckline FACING. The stitching should start and end at half the width of the main garment's hem allowance. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE on the inner edge of the underlap at the beginning of the LINING attachment. Fold the underlap SEAM ALLOWANCE from the hemline to the clip inwards and hand stitch with blind stitches. Serge the LINING attachment seam and press towards the LINING. Hand stitch the garment hem with blind stitches. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge of the front and COLLAR.
15. Attach the LINING to the CUFFS. Turn the coat right side out.
16. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes, on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.