Tailored Jacket with Flounced Lapels
A women's fitted, lined hip-length jacket with a notched collar and a double-layer flounced lapel that falls in a cascade down the front edge and below the hem. The fronts meet edge to edge on four hooks and eyes; flap pockets with welts, two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents.
When To Wear
- At the office or for daytime events, with trousers or a straight skirt.
- Over a plain top or a dress in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by front and back princess seams.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar (upper and under collar) joined to the flounced lapels along the gorge line.
Front: Front yoke at the shoulder and front princess seams. The flounced lapel is cut in two layers, stitched along its lower and outer edges and set between the front and the facing. Edge-to-edge closure with 4 hooks and eyes.
Pockets: Pockets set into the horizontal seam between the side upper front and the centre front, with a flap and two folded welts; lining pocket bags.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps, a vent at the hem and 3 buttons on each vent; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Lining: Full lining including sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve seam; front and back lining cut from the main pieces minus the facings.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Flap pockets with welts in a seam, a notched collar joined to a two-layer flounced lapel, sleeve vents, an eased sleeve cap with shoulder pads and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, facings, back neck facing, upper collar, flaps, welts, sleeve hem allowances, pocket openings)
- 4 hooks and eyes
- 6 buttons (sleeve vents)
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 4 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Attention: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Ruffle Lapel (labelled CENTER FRONT FACING on the pattern) – 4 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Frame (welt) – 4 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Large Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front, Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, sleeve hem, Flap, Frame, Upper Collar.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Fuse the back neckline and the pocket opening on the center front piece.
- On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press seams open. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam open.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Press seam allowances towards the center. On the front, stitch the princess seams. Press seam allowances towards the center.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together in pairs, stitch, trim the corners, and turn right side out. Fold the Frames in half lengthwise and press. Stitch the lower Frame to the seam allowance of the Center Front. Stitch the upper Frame together with the Flap to the lower edge of the Side Upper Front. Cut the pocket opening on the Center Front. Turn the frames and flap to the right side and press. Stitch the Large Pocket Bag to the seam allowance of the upper frame, and the Smaller Pocket Bag to the lower frame. Stitch the pocket bags. Secure the corner with a double stitch.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Place the Ruffle Lapel pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch along the lower and outer edges up to the notch marking the end of the collar seam. Trim seams at corners. Turn the lapels right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the collar to the Ruffle Lapels along the gorge line. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Place the facings on the right side of the jacket, right side down, inserting the Ruffle Lapels and collar between them. Pin and stitch along the front edge and neckline.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve and the vent corners on the lower and upper sleeve pieces. Press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, make a notch, and press the vent. Stitch a diagonal securing stitch along the sleeve vent. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
- Press up the jacket hem. Attach the lining to the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- On the right front, sew on hooks, and on the left front, sew on eyes.
- Sew 3 buttons onto each sleeve vent.
