Wrap Coat
A women's knee-length wrap coat with a wide collar and lapels, princess seams with in-seam pockets, and a tie belt. The upper collar, front facings, cuffs and one side of the belt are cut from a contrast fabric. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring as an outer coat, wrapped and tied at the waist.
- Over dresses, or over knitwear and trousers, with the contrast collar and cuffs on show.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight body, drawn in at the waist by the tie belt.
Length: About knee length.
Collar: Wide collar rolling into wide lapels. The under collar is main fabric, the upper collar contrast fabric, set into the neckline of the facings.
Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves with a separately cut contrast cuff stitched to the sleeve hem; the sleeve lining is attached to the inner edge of the cuff.
Front: Centre front and side front panels joined by a princess seam; darts on the centre front pieces.
Closure: Wrap front held by one button with a buttonhole on the right front and one inner button, plus the tie belt.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the princess seams, with pocket extensions cut on the front panels and lining pocket bags.
Back: One piece, with no centre back seam.
Waist: Tie belt made of two layers, one in main and one in contrast fabric, topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge.
Finishing: Front edges, collar ends and outer collar edge topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge; hem finished by hand with blind stitches; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining, cut without the facings and cuffs.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. In-seam pockets in a princess seam, a two-layer collar set between the coat and the facings, a full lining joined to facings and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabrics of natural or blended fibres, in two contrasting colours.
Additional Supplies
- Contrast fabric (upper collar, front facings, back neck facing, cuffs, one belt layer)
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, contrast collar, cuffs, pocket area)
- Raglan shoulder pads
- 1 button
- 1 inner button
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment - 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Waistband (belt) – 1 piece
- From contrasting fabric:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Waistband (belt) – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
Attention: the Back, front and Sleeve lining pieces are cut minus the Back Neckline Facing, the Center Front Facing and the Cuff, respectively.
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing – 2 pieces, Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece, Collar – 1 piece (contrast collar), Cuff – 2 pieces.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, contrast Collar and Cuffs. Fuse the pocket area on the Center Front and Side Front pieces.
- Stitch the darts on the Center Front pieces and press them upwards.
- Stitch the Pocket Bags to the cut-on pocket extensions. Press the seams towards the Pocket Bags. Stitch the Side Fronts to the Center Fronts, stitching the Pocket Bags together at the same time. On the Side Front, clip the seam allowance at the ends of the pocket opening. Press the pocket extensions towards the center front, press open the princess seam and overlock from the bottom to the pocket.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances open. Overlock side seam allowances from the bottom to the waist.
- Stitch the main-fabric Collar into the back and front neckline. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the Center Front Facings to the Back Neckline Facing at the shoulders. Press the seams open. Stitch the contrast Collar into the neckline of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press seam allowances open.
- Place the facings with the contrast Collar on the right side of the coat, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edges, collar ends and outer collar edge. Stitch the bottom edges of the Center Front Facings to the fronts exactly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the facing. Trim the seam allowances at the corners. Turn the facings to the inside and roll the seams to the edge. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and press to the wrong side.
- Place the Cuff on the Sleeve right sides together and stitch along the bottom edge. Press the seam allowances. Open out the sleeve and cuff and stitch the sleeve and cuff seam in one line. Press seam allowances open, turn the cuff to the wrong side.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch and overlock seams and set in sleeves, similar to the main fabric pieces.
- Double-fold the lining hem allowance and topstitch. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Start and end the stitching at half the width of the main garment's bottom hem. Tack the collar seam allowances together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edge of the Cuff. Turn the coat right side out. Hem the bottom of the coat with blind stitches. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the front edges, collar ends and outer collar edge.
- Make a buttonhole on the right front and sew a button on the left front. Make a buttonhole and sew on the inner button on the inside.
- Place the two Waistband (belt) pieces right sides together and stitch around, leaving an opening on the long side. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the seam allowances of the unstitched section, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt.
