Fitted Blazer with Shaped Front
A fitted, fully lined women's jacket with princess seams, a stand collar combined with small notched lapels, a three-button front with rounded lower corners and jetted pockets with flaps. A gathered trim with a fabric flower is stitched on at the shoulder.
When To Wear
- For the office with a pencil skirt, a dress or trousers.
- In spring and autumn as a light top layer.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back plus darts on both.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Stand collar set into the neckline, with small lapels and a notch at the front edge.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam, shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes on the right front.
Front: Rounded lower front corners; the centre front pieces are fully interfaced.
Pockets: Double-jetted pockets with flaps, set across the front princess seam.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.
Finishing: Topstitching along the front edges, stand collar, jacket hem and sleeve hems; a self-fabric trim, lightly gathered across, with a gathered fabric flower, sewn onto the shoulder area.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, attached to the front facings and back neck facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Jetted pockets with flaps, a stand collar joined to lapels at the notch, two-piece sleeves with sleeve heads and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin coating fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, collar stand, centre fronts, pocket flaps and jettings, armhole edges, pocket areas)
- Lining fabric
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeves 4 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket facing – 4 pieces
- Lower trim – 1 piece
- Flower – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- From fusible interlining: front facing, back neckline facing, collar stand, center front, flap, pocket facing.
Attention: Front and back pieces from lining are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interlining to the front facing, back neckline facing, collar stand, center front, upper flaps, pocket facings, armhole edge on the front and back. Fuse the pocket placement area on the center and side front parts.
- Mark darts on the front and back. Stitch and press back darts towards the center. Stitch front darts, clip the dart depth and press open.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back and front, press allowances open. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim seam allowances at corners of flaps, clip curves, turn right side out.
- Mark pocket placement. Fold pocket facings in half wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for attaching it. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attaching it parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the width of the flap along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facings. Attach pocket bag to the flap. Attach facings to the front. Stitch ends finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches must be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush with each other. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket facing. Attach the lower pocket bag to the seam of the lower facing attachment, trim and stitch the pocket bag.
- Stitch and press open shoulder and side seams.
- Place upper collar stand with lower and stitch around. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attaching the collar stand. Trim seams at corners. Turn collar stand right side out, straighten and press.
- Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Place front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch the front edge, lapel, gorge, and lower corner of the front edge. Trim seams at corners. Understitch the seam allowance of the front edge: on the fastening area – to the front facing. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn front edges right side out, straighten seams. Press up the bottom of the garment.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the jacket neckline, and the inner collar stand to the back neckline facing and front facing. Press open the seam allowances of the collar stand attachment.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Secure the seam allowances of the collar stand attachment close to the seams.
- Attach lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Topstitch along the front edge, collar stand, bottom of the jacket, and sleeve hem.
- On the right front, make buttonholes. Sew buttons on the left front accordingly.
- Fold the lower trim piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening for turning. Turn the piece right side out, sew up the technical opening. Stitch a row across with loosely tensioned stitches and gently gather. Topstitch the trim to the shoulder area according to the technical drawing.
- Fold the flower piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening for turning. Turn the piece right side out, sew up the technical opening. Stitch a row along the long edge with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Form the piece into a flower and secure it to the lower trim piece.
