Classic Colour-Block Blazer
A women's fitted, lined blazer of hip length in two suiting fabrics: the side front and side back panels and the under sleeves are cut from the second colour. It has a notched collar, a one-button front with rounded front hem corners and single-welt pockets.
When To Wear
- At the office with trousers or a straight skirt.
- With jeans and a plain top for everyday wear in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; a 1 cm stay tape of interfacing along the lapel roll line, upper collar interfaced.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, the under sleeve in the contrast fabric; sleeve hems interfaced, turned up 3 cm.
Front: Centre front interfaced; single-breasted, one button and buttonhole; front edge understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts, interfaced welts, pocket bags in fabric and lining.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts; back hem faced with an interfaced facing joined to the front facings.
Finishing: Shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining cut as the jacket, with a turning opening in the right sleeve lining seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Notched collar with stay-taped lapels, single-welt pockets, two-piece sleeves eased into the armhole with sleeve heads, and a lining bagged through the sleeve.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres in two colours.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back hem and neck facings, upper collar, welts, sleeve hems, stay tape)
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric 1:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back hem facing – 1 piece
- Lower collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From main fabric 2:
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Center front
- Front facing
- Stay tape
- Back hem facing
- Back neckline facing
- Upper collar
- Welt
- Sleeve hem
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interlining to the pieces. On the front, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interlining).
- On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front and back. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fuse stay tape to the pocket opening. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. End stitching at the short marking lines. Cut open the pocket. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch the back hem facing to the front facing. Press seams open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge and hem. Stitch up to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Understitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the buttonhole area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
- Stitch the under collar into the jacket neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole, and on the left front, sew on a button.
