Shoulder Fold Top with Ballooned Hem

Name: Shoulder Fold Top with Ballooned Hem
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4153
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4153

A women's sleeveless hip-length top in draping knit, lined with the same fabric. Free pleats at the left shoulder, on the front and on a cut-on drape of the back, run diagonally across the body; a narrow tail hangs from the shoulder seam, and the hem is gathered with elastic thread into a balloon shape. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric with good drape and medium stretch, in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Shoulder Fold Top with Ballooned Hem

When To Wear

In summer, with slim trousers, a pencil skirt or jeans.
Under a jacket for the office or an evening out.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Loose through the body, drawn in at the hem.

Length: Hip length.

Neckline: Round, faced by the lining.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished by the lining.

Front: One piece with darts; the left shoulder edge is laid in free pleats that drape diagonally down the front, and the hem is gathered.

Back: One piece with a cut-on drape at the upper back, folded, pleated and stitched into the left shoulder seam, so the folds fall diagonally across the back.

Finishing: A narrow tail, folded and stitched, sewn into the left shoulder seam; the lower edges of top and lining stitched together with elastic thread to form the balloon hem.

Lining: Front and back lining cut on the fold from the main fabric, the front with darts; the top is turned through an opening in the left side seam of the lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Free pleating matched to the lining, a left shoulder seam that joins the top, the cut-on drape, the tail and the lining in one seam, and shirring with elastic thread.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric with good drape and medium stretch, in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Elastic thread

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams – 0.7 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker. Attention! Markings on the patterns are on the right side.

From main fabric:
- Front – 1 piece
- Back – 1 piece
- Front lining – 1 piece on fold
- Back lining – 1 piece on fold
- Tail – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Mark and stitch darts on the front and front lining. Trim dart depths with an overlocker.
Fold the tail in half lengthwise and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn right side out.
Stitch the right shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances towards the back.
Stitch the right shoulder seam and side seams of the lining, leaving a technical opening in the left side seam.
Along the bottom of the front, sew a stitch with loosely tensioned thread and gather.
Place the main fabric and lining right sides together and stitch the neckline, starting and ending the stitch at the left shoulder seam (the left shoulder seam of the pieces remains unstitched). Stitch the right armhole in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole. Stitch the left armhole. Turn pieces right side out and press.
Fold the integrated bow on the upper back to the right side and stitch the short sides, starting the stitch strictly at the shoulder seam line. Turn the bow right side out.
Along the left shoulder edge of the front, create and secure arbitrary pleats, aligning them with the lining edge. Pin the tail to the front, aligning the open edge of the tail with the shoulder edge. Along the inner edge of the bow, create arbitrary pleats, aligning them with the lining shoulder edge. Insert the front shoulder edge between the inner of the bow and the back lining and stitch the left shoulder edge. Turn right side out. On the upper of the bow, create arbitrary pleats and stitch into the shoulder seam.
Turn the blouse inside out and stitch the bottom edges with elastic thread. Turn the blouse right side out through the technical opening. Stitch the opening closed.